Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good hard earned Aussie dollars await the vendors of following items

R34 GTT Intercooler Got One

RB25 OEM Turbo... Got One

HKS dump pipe like hks_dump_pipe_small.jpgSTILL WANT ONE... Does anyone know a good casting shop that may be able to help??

Apexi PFC + H/C + EBC to suit HCR32 Got One

Oil Coller setup to suit RB20DET prefer OEM Got One

Please email me at [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/
Share on other sites

That sure as hell ain't no HKS dump pipe. That looks like something that came out of my ass last night.

Once you see a GENUINE HKS dump pipe, you'll know what I mean.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416096
Share on other sites

Boxhead: That's pretty much right... Basically for the lower volume models, APEXi outsourced the PowerFC tuning/testing/R&D to a company called AP.Engineering. They were under contract to APEXi to produce the PowerFCs for models like the RB20DET, SR20DE (non turbo Silvias), 3S-GTE (MR2s), AE86, FC3S (Older RX7s) etc etc...

The more mainstream/popular models, APEXi did the R&D/testing themselves.

The R32 GTS-t model PowerFC is called "AP. Engineering Power FC SPL" and the APEXi Part Number is 4E14N07Z. It's priced at 118,000 Yen.

It's in the APEXi Master Catalog, so I assume you can purchase them through APEXi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416257
Share on other sites

Well Merli or is it Mr HKS.

It is a Genuine HKS Cast item! I have a 3'' stainless mandrel split pulse item. If I wanted a 'ken mandrel one I would have asked for one.

And anyone who has tried to source a PFC for HCR32 knows all the BS about them subbing to another mob bla bla bla.

With all due respect... stop turning this post into a general discussion

I know I will pay a "fair bit" but let me be the judge of value...

You dont know why I want these items, so stick the facts.. Like the part number, now that was helpful!

Ciao

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416319
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Targa Tom

Well Merli or is it Mr HKS.

It is a Genuine HKS Cast item!  I have a 3'' stainless mandrel split pulse item. If I wanted a 'ken mandrel one I would have asked for one.

There is no such thing as a "Genuine HKS Cast Item" Dump Pipe.

And with that crappy attitude, you'd better not hold your breath for people to come to help you out in the future, because you obviously know it all, and don't need our help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416382
Share on other sites

Life is a Mirror Merli... "That sure as hell ain't no HKS dump pipe. That looks like something that came out of my ass last night.... sure reaks of a crappy attitude to me.

I just wanted to procure the items, didnt want a bagging on my taste or lack of it! It may not be HKS, but it comes in an HKS turbo-kit box... and no I dont have the part number.

I may well be wrong, cos I don't have the full HKS range commited to memory. Pick someone else to sling off at, I'm busy trying to find some hard to get parts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416430
Share on other sites

Your taste? I was bagging your taste or anything else. I was (admittedly drunkenly at 2:48am) telling you that the pictured item was not an HKS dump pipe. If you would have rathered to go on and be deluded in thinking that HKS makes such horrible pieces of workmanship, then that's your perogative. If it came in an "HKS turbo kit box", then someone my friend, got majorly ripped off.

FYI, HKS dump pipe for HCR32 is a very VERY common item, not a "hard to get part" at all... It is listed in their catalog (I don't memorise it either :) ) as Part Number: 1418-RN008 at a price of 26,000 Yen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416584
Share on other sites

I have seen a hks turbo, 2510 from memory, a older version that had that HKS cast dump pipe. Just because they dont seel them now dosent mean they were never made.

Just like you can buy old HKS cast manifolds, looked a bit crude but were ok for their time.

I will keep a look out and may no of a 34 cooler for sale soon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416596
Share on other sites

Thanks Clint32!!!! Appreciated...

Look out Merli, more deluded people... Sydneykid who pens many cm in these forums also believes it is an HKS dump pipe.

I WILL SWAP A STAINLESS MANDREL TYPE SCREAMER FOR ONE OF THESE "HKS" CAST DUMP PIPES

At least Merli is keeping my thread bumped... any publicity is good publicity.

Ciao Clint32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416999
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Have logged your details,

Still really want one of these cast pipes. If anyone has one I will buy 'em a dump pipe of their choice to replace it....

Gotta be one someplace..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-504391
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Dear Santa,

Still really want one of these cast pipes. If anyone has one I will buy 'em a dump pipe of their choice to replace it....

Gotta be one someplace..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-593305
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Good hard earned Aussie dollars await...  Still after a dump dump pipe like hks_dump_pipe_small.jpgSTILL WANT ONE... Does anyone know a good casting shop that may be able to help??

Please email me at [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-636181
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...