Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good hard earned Aussie dollars await the vendors of following items

R34 GTT Intercooler Got One

RB25 OEM Turbo... Got One

HKS dump pipe like hks_dump_pipe_small.jpgSTILL WANT ONE... Does anyone know a good casting shop that may be able to help??

Apexi PFC + H/C + EBC to suit HCR32 Got One

Oil Coller setup to suit RB20DET prefer OEM Got One

Please email me at [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/
Share on other sites

That sure as hell ain't no HKS dump pipe. That looks like something that came out of my ass last night.

Once you see a GENUINE HKS dump pipe, you'll know what I mean.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416096
Share on other sites

Boxhead: That's pretty much right... Basically for the lower volume models, APEXi outsourced the PowerFC tuning/testing/R&D to a company called AP.Engineering. They were under contract to APEXi to produce the PowerFCs for models like the RB20DET, SR20DE (non turbo Silvias), 3S-GTE (MR2s), AE86, FC3S (Older RX7s) etc etc...

The more mainstream/popular models, APEXi did the R&D/testing themselves.

The R32 GTS-t model PowerFC is called "AP. Engineering Power FC SPL" and the APEXi Part Number is 4E14N07Z. It's priced at 118,000 Yen.

It's in the APEXi Master Catalog, so I assume you can purchase them through APEXi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416257
Share on other sites

Well Merli or is it Mr HKS.

It is a Genuine HKS Cast item! I have a 3'' stainless mandrel split pulse item. If I wanted a 'ken mandrel one I would have asked for one.

And anyone who has tried to source a PFC for HCR32 knows all the BS about them subbing to another mob bla bla bla.

With all due respect... stop turning this post into a general discussion

I know I will pay a "fair bit" but let me be the judge of value...

You dont know why I want these items, so stick the facts.. Like the part number, now that was helpful!

Ciao

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416319
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Targa Tom

Well Merli or is it Mr HKS.

It is a Genuine HKS Cast item!  I have a 3'' stainless mandrel split pulse item. If I wanted a 'ken mandrel one I would have asked for one.

There is no such thing as a "Genuine HKS Cast Item" Dump Pipe.

And with that crappy attitude, you'd better not hold your breath for people to come to help you out in the future, because you obviously know it all, and don't need our help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416382
Share on other sites

Life is a Mirror Merli... "That sure as hell ain't no HKS dump pipe. That looks like something that came out of my ass last night.... sure reaks of a crappy attitude to me.

I just wanted to procure the items, didnt want a bagging on my taste or lack of it! It may not be HKS, but it comes in an HKS turbo-kit box... and no I dont have the part number.

I may well be wrong, cos I don't have the full HKS range commited to memory. Pick someone else to sling off at, I'm busy trying to find some hard to get parts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416430
Share on other sites

Your taste? I was bagging your taste or anything else. I was (admittedly drunkenly at 2:48am) telling you that the pictured item was not an HKS dump pipe. If you would have rathered to go on and be deluded in thinking that HKS makes such horrible pieces of workmanship, then that's your perogative. If it came in an "HKS turbo kit box", then someone my friend, got majorly ripped off.

FYI, HKS dump pipe for HCR32 is a very VERY common item, not a "hard to get part" at all... It is listed in their catalog (I don't memorise it either :) ) as Part Number: 1418-RN008 at a price of 26,000 Yen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416584
Share on other sites

I have seen a hks turbo, 2510 from memory, a older version that had that HKS cast dump pipe. Just because they dont seel them now dosent mean they were never made.

Just like you can buy old HKS cast manifolds, looked a bit crude but were ok for their time.

I will keep a look out and may no of a 34 cooler for sale soon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416596
Share on other sites

Thanks Clint32!!!! Appreciated...

Look out Merli, more deluded people... Sydneykid who pens many cm in these forums also believes it is an HKS dump pipe.

I WILL SWAP A STAINLESS MANDREL TYPE SCREAMER FOR ONE OF THESE "HKS" CAST DUMP PIPES

At least Merli is keeping my thread bumped... any publicity is good publicity.

Ciao Clint32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-416999
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Have logged your details,

Still really want one of these cast pipes. If anyone has one I will buy 'em a dump pipe of their choice to replace it....

Gotta be one someplace..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-504391
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Dear Santa,

Still really want one of these cast pipes. If anyone has one I will buy 'em a dump pipe of their choice to replace it....

Gotta be one someplace..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-593305
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Good hard earned Aussie dollars await...  Still after a dump dump pipe like hks_dump_pipe_small.jpgSTILL WANT ONE... Does anyone know a good casting shop that may be able to help??

Please email me at [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19773-reward-offered/#findComment-636181
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...