Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

^^ Nah he's serious, have a read of his other threads. *shakes head*

Thien, you cant get the sound of venting to atmosphere without the problems that come along with it, unless you change over to an ecu that does not use an AFM.

Thanks mate... and yeah, I'm not too technically-minded when it comes to all this stuff... silly me...

I guess, I'll have to live with it then.... either lose the sound or have the sound with stalling issues.

Thanks mate.

Would a 50/50 plumb back BOV work?

if you really want the psssht, try full atmo on a hybrid type bov. if it gives you trouble in full atmo (which plenty of skylines run without issue) then go 50/50. you should be fine. if that fails, you can always set it up as fully plumbed.

for the guy that asked earlier how its done:

fully plumbed = block one side, attached other to recirc hose.

50/50 = trumpet on one side, other side to recirc hose.

fully atmo = block recirc, use 1 or 2 trumpets on bov

here's mine 50/50

post-29392-1197881136_thumb.jpg

fully plumbed back, as it is now, . the trumpet is replaced with a supplied cap from GFB

post-29392-1197881169_thumb.jpg

btw, if it didnt come with the car, i highly doubt i would've needed or bought it.

Edited by Munkyb0y
if you really want the psssht, try full atmo on a hybrid type bov. if it gives you trouble in full atmo (which plenty of skylines run without issue) then go 50/50. you should be fine. if that fails, you can always set it up as fully plumbed.

for the guy that asked earlier how its done:

fully plumbed = block one side, attached other to recirc hose.

50/50 = trumpet on one side, other side to recirc hose.

fully atmo = block recirc, use 1 or 2 trumpets on bov

here's mine 50/50

post-29392-1197881136_thumb.jpg

fully plumbed back, as it is now, . the trumpet is replaced with a supplied cap from GFB

post-29392-1197881169_thumb.jpg

btw, if it didnt come with the car, i highly doubt i would've needed or bought it.

Is it just me, is does it seem that most people don't give two hoots about BOV's... and don't car about the ssshhtttt sound... would it be fair to say that everyone is over this?

Or is it due to stalling issues which is common in R33's?

where can you get that done? whats is actually changed?

It's dodgey mate.

you take your stock bov off.

and put it in a VISE.

then crush it a little.

this preloads the spring that is in it which makes it hold more pressure as it takes more pressure to push the spring.

it doesn't actually make any more sound though.

Is it just me, is does it seem that most people don't give two hoots about BOV's... and don't car about the ssshhtttt sound... would it be fair to say that everyone is over this?

Or is it due to stalling issues which is common in R33's?

Yes that is correct.

we give no shit for bov sound.

put the stocker on there and stop talking about it.

its true

i also give very little shit for the sound, so i ordered the cap from gfb to block the fuccker off.

i remember driving a 300zx with twin super dooper trumpet ultra mega farkoff bovs. i was over it in 20 mins. i mean even at 2k it was going AAAAAPPSHCOOOO. enough already, i just wanna drive.

Mate, have a think about what youre asking.

Why would you want to modify your car in a way where the *only* benefit will be more noise (which will in turn give you more attention from police), and the downside to it is that it can and almost always will make your car run worse? (In the case of vehicles running airflow metres)

Your stock one does its job, which is to prolong turbocharger life, not make noise.

Dont but an atmospheric one, its pure wank and a waste of money.

DONT PUT THE STOCKER BACK ON MAN.

buy an AEM quality plumb back bov. stockers are shit. they leak and fail to seal. think about it.

what would u do if u were pushed up and down BILLIONS of simes :S

Thanks mate... and yeah, I'm not too technically-minded when it comes to all this stuff... silly me...

I guess, I'll have to live with it then.... either lose the sound or have the sound with stalling issues.

Thanks mate.

Would a 50/50 plumb back BOV work?

No it will not work.

Your AFM measures how much air is going into the engine, the ecu then uses that measuement of air going in to work out hom much fuel put in.

When you put on a BOV that vents air back to atmosphere (makes thats loud pschhh) your computer (thinking the air is still in the engine) puts in way too much fuel. This results in stalling, stuttering, big black exhaust smoke and a generally shithouse driving experience.

A 50/50 BOV still dumps 50% of the air that the ecu expects, so it still causes a problem. Just leave it stock FFS!

*On a side note I changed my spark plugs on the weekend and forgot to put the BOV return pipe back on, as i changed gears i got the atmo bov noise. But it made the car feel so sluggish on gear changes, spat so much black smoke I cant imagine how anyone could deal with that just for a little ghey sound*

DONT PUT THE STOCKER BACK ON MAN.

buy an AEM quality plumb back bov. stockers are shit. they leak and fail to seal. think about it.

what would u do if u were pushed up and down BILLIONS of simes :S

This is twice I've seen you post this bad advice.

what is AEM?

stock bovs are rubbish, leaking heaps of shit, done a trip 2 brissy other weekend, running stock bov, f**kin heap of shit leaking the whole time on light throttle could hear it just in vacum, so fkn annoying

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...