Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Recently, I was just pulling up at my mates house when a cloud of white smoke. First i thought head gasket right...... lots of white smoke but my idle is fine and she revs fine so i put it down to maybe water after the storm. Next few days driving to work intermittently clouds of white smoke. I thought maybe it was a overly restrictive breather system that i installed but its fine i think. I have ex and in connected to each other then to catch can and catch can to intercooler piling. blocked PVC

So far i have these opitions:

1. small leak in the head gasket which means i should start to get lumpy idle, oil in coolant and in stuff under the oil cap.

2. Its a valve stem which i have no idea to diagnosis or what the F it is

3. turbo seal... therewas some white smoke coming from the dump

oil or water?

helpplease :dry:

1. Small leak in headgasket is one of the most likely the cause. It could be a leak from the coolant gallery to the combustion chamber only, which would allow coolant to burn (white smoke)

U wont get oil in the coolant always from a blown hg.

2. Valve stem seals allow oil to drip into the chamber and would burn off blue smoke. Only usually in the mornings when the oil has had a chance to drip down. No chance.

3. Could be a turbo seal. Same deal, coolant being burnt (white smoke.)

radiator places can do a test on the coolant to check for exhaust gas in it (forgot the name) Id advise to stop driving the car, or take it easy until u can get it tested.

Edited by Bl4cK32

IF it helps... i had oil on the bonnet and in the engine dip stick blown out! blow by (i think it is called) I had the same catch can setup with only diff now being the adapters which are quire restrictive. the PVC is blocked. in and ex linked and than to catch can > to intercooler. and i raised boost recently! can revs feel in neutral

IF it helps... i had oil on the bonnet and in the engine dip stick blown out! blow by (i think it is called) I had the same catch can setup with only diff now being the adapters which are quire restrictive. the PVC is blocked. in and ex linked and than to catch can > to intercooler. and i raised boost recently! can revs feel in neutral

Can you retype that, as i can't understand what you have written?

From what i have made out: You can not have your catch can feed into your intercooler piping, as you'll be pressurizing the system. The "venting hose", coming out your catch can, should vent into the turbo intake pipe (the pipe between your filter and turbo) or vent into atmo (illegal, but commonly done).

What do you mean by saying "PVC is blocked off"?

Some good pics would also help us determine whether your catch can is installed incorrectly. I have seen people attempt to install these themselves and do it wrong. If you pressurize the "system", you'll be forcing oil through the piston rings, seals, etc., thus causing oil to be burnt (hence the white smoke) and possibly causing damage to the engine.

The catch can setup involved the following: 1. intake cover and exhaust cover linked 2. the connection between the intake cover and the pcv valve on the intake manifold has been blocked 3. the linked exhaust and intake covers are feed to a catch can 4. the catch can is plump back into the intake piling between the air pod and turbo

is this correct?

post-36695-1197796877_thumb.jpg

I think if you block the PCV you need to vent to atmo, not feed it back into the intake pipe.

Mine is setup as follows:

PCV blocked. IN & EX cam covers linked, then to catch can, vent to atmo.

Well,

i performed a dry compression test today on all 6 cylinders with WOT and warm engine. All came back with 130 psi across the board. I checked the oil cap and there is no excess air and the oil seems to be the right viscosity. Radiator doesn't buddle or have oil in it. The exhaust doesn't imediately give out white smoke the warmer the more the smoke i get.

Any ideas anyone?

awesome........ could it be a restrictive breather on teh catch can creating increased crankpressure

easy to eliminate, remove hoses from breathers - if it still happens then you've at least ruled that out but i doubt thats your problem. i would perform leak down also

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...