Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i have not posted in a LONG time, i finally got enough cash together to buy a r32 gtr. I just have a couple of questions.

- I am buying from the mainland, when i get it back is there a period of time that i have got to drive it before i have to get a road worthy and register it in Tasmania?

- Also will a r32 gtr with only minor mods like exhaust and pod filters get a roadworthy alright. I read some post s about the mainlanders having to put in stock airboxes and chaniging exhausts etc, how hard is it to register in tasmania?

- and last of all what sort of documents and vehicle plaques etc will i need/ be looking for when i look at a gtr?

Cheers guys i appreciate any help you can give me .

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198631-roadworthy/
Share on other sites

if the car comes with rego and it has more than 3 months you have 3 months until you have to get it over the pits. but look into it as it may have recently changed.

as far as mods go you shouldnt have any trouble as down here we are nowhere near as stricked as the mainland. my car passed with visual things like pod filter, bigger turbo, lowered, intercooler ect. and sound wise 3inch xforce exhaust system (pretty loud), and atmo bov (pretty loud) ect. mainly just make sure your tyres are good, there are no fluids leaking and your seat belts are in top condition.

in other words you should be fine as far as mods go.

its always a good idea to check the vehicles registration status, even if you are told its registered and it has a clear title. get registration number, VIN and engine number and check it out before making any advances.

have fun!

4drftn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198631-roadworthy/#findComment-3545986
Share on other sites

thats pretty much spot on - i got my r32 gtr done about 8 or 9 months ago and honestly - transport guys were so thick the had to ask me weather or not the car had a turbo.....

so you should be fine with that (mine had pods - no air box and an exhaust)

do you mind if i ask where abouts you are getting it from.?

-Mitchhh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198631-roadworthy/#findComment-3546094
Share on other sites

Hey Tas_sinful

I am most likely getting it from sydney but i havent chosen the exact one i want to buy yet, just going to look at a few and pick one on a weekend and drive it back.

So the process is roughly (correct me if im wrong) bring it back from sydney, i then most likely have three months to get it registered in tassie, take it to get a roadworthy, then go to transport and pay for rego and plates etc.

Two questions, where abouts do i take it to get a roadworthy? and what sort of paper work etc do i need to take to service TAS, also will service tas look at the car or do they just need the roadworthy certificate?

Thanks Guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198631-roadworthy/#findComment-3546103
Share on other sites

spot on providing your car you get from the mainland has 3 or more months rego left on it...

there is a website i went to that has rego status checks for NSW i used (my car come from sydney) if i can find the site again i will post it up. mind you you must provide the VIN, rego number and engine number for the process to work.

depending on where abouts from tassie your at, im a southerner i went to performance automobiles to get mine put over the pits. pro auto may be a good place to get it put over and checked, my mate goes through them, seem to know what they are doing... as they should.

when you have put it over the pits you will get a certificate that you will need to take o service tas with the rego papers ect.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198631-roadworthy/#findComment-3547502
Share on other sites

Excellent. Looks like im just about set i am planning on heading over to Sydney and checking out a couple of cars over there. I am actually a mechanic myself so hopefully i can find a good one and drive it back. If you are able to find that website that would be great.

One more question too, i am a southerner as well, is there anyone in Hobart that has a dyno and can tune a Apexi FC that you know of.

thanks for the help 4drftn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198631-roadworthy/#findComment-3547756
Share on other sites

the guys down at pro auto in moonah swear by the apexi fc's, the tunner down there is a wizz with the apexi power fc's apparently.

If you havent already got one, and you want to use this type of ECU you will have to pre order it. iv been told that they are in short supply in AUS and need to be sent from overseas (could be wrong). my mate ordered one through pro auto a couple of months ago havent yet got it, mind you it cost him an arm and a leg and his left nut to get it.

a few guys on this forum may be able to give you a good price on one.

this site should help you...

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/

cheers 4drftn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198631-roadworthy/#findComment-3548128
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...