Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nissan SKyline R32 gts-4...80,000kms 1990 model..in WHITE

5 speed manual, drives so smoothly any test-ride is welcome, u can test drive if i believe u seem like a decent driver with genuine interest =)

Hills/hornsby area in SYDNEY

REGO until JUNE 08

$10000 ono as is, but is negotiable with parts taken out.

pm me or contact me on 0430138891 -Jong

Comments / Modifications: k here we go..

-GTR front mount

-GTR injectors

-GTR Fuel pump

-GTR coilpacks

-after market turbo

-kakimoto exhaust

-GREDDY intake and pod

-APEXI POWER FC...these things are SO RARE nowadays for RB20det and sell for around $1000 used

-APEXI turbo timer with A/F, o2, and battery readings as well

-leather NISMO gear knob

-JIC carbon fibre front AND rear strut braces

-SONY xplode head unit with 6/9 rears and also clarion front 4/6

-probs other stuff forgot to list..

-oh yeh, 4 near new faulken tyres 225 width..onli 1 month old

-4 new brake pads from brakepro in parramatta..2 weeks old

PROBLEMS: okay apart from a few tiny dings and scratches, the body is very very straight..it looks very shiny/clean. ONLY thing as far as i know that is wrong with the car is a snapped speedo cable, meaning that speedo doesn't work and the HICAS light is always on. i have been quoted by nissan around $250 to fix, but i'm simpy out of cash right now and hence want to sell it for cheap. i've owned the car for around half a year now, and have never gotten round to fixing the cable as it doesn't realli affect me.

being a gts4, these things are pretty rare now, having the gtr 4wd atessa..and the power goes down pretty well. previous owner claims to have tuned this machine to the powerfc at 240rwkw... i know thats a big claim but come have a ride and see for urself.

any questions or wateva contact me. cheers.

oh and the price is negotiable..can take parts out such as powerfc, (i have stock ecu), or the strut braces..etc.

Oh yeh, wheels are just stockies painted black..look alrite.

selling because i simply can't afford to maintain a high powered turbo. still a student and once semester starts again i'll probs need to go back to a pez lil honda for my daily..instead of the r32.

more pics BELOW

post-41703-1198243926_thumb.jpg

post-41703-1198243937_thumb.jpg

post-41703-1198243944_thumb.jpg

post-41703-1198243952_thumb.jpg

Edited by jong
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198660-fs-syd-r32-gts4white/
Share on other sites

bumpp

yeh i'm pretty sure this car will be pretty hard to sell without a working speedo lol..

so unless any1 wants to hit me wiv some offers now i guess i'll get that fixed sumtime in january and try again then

however i am pretty negotiable at this present time..

pretty good price, so what else does this car need, and does itt come with a rwc?

cheers mate

um.. not sure about rwc? in nsw so all its got is current rego..

what else does it need? just needs the speedo cable!

oh and as u can see in the interior pics, the air vents popped out a few days ago while i was driving mid corner lol...

i still have all the vents and stuff obviously so i'll just glue it on soon, or wait till a potential buyer looks at it and see what they want me to do.

this car will not dissapoint.. it's been my daily driver for the past 3 or 4 months. the only thing i hate about it is it's petrol consumption lol...

Jong.. why don't u post it up on car sales? or carpoint?

i'm sure if u wanna sell it.. u can sell it there..

:P

lol its alreadi on carsales..for 10800 but, which i think is still pretty good valuee...

still for sale... sum1 buy this monster u will be surprised.............

hit me wiv more offers..

fixed up the interior vents as well..

interior is now all gooood

My dream first turbo car!

Burn in hell P plate laws..

GL with the sale mate, priced well for the market at the moment.

Nice car. Few questions for you:

1) Do you have a dyno sheet to prove the claimed 240rwkw? Would have to be a huge laggy turbo to hit 240rwkw on an RB20, how is the response of the turbo? When does full boost hit?

2) Do you have compression / leak down test results for the motor? I would be concerned with longevity of the engine given the high power the car is making and it has been used at track days.

3) Does the air con work properly? I am in Brisbane and this is very important :yes:

4) Have the timing belt/water pump been replaced? Any belts replaced?

I am pretty interested pending answers.

Nice car. Few questions for you:

1) Do you have a dyno sheet to prove the claimed 240rwkw? Would have to be a huge laggy turbo to hit 240rwkw on an RB20, how is the response of the turbo? When does full boost hit?

2) Do you have compression / leak down test results for the motor? I would be concerned with longevity of the engine given the high power the car is making and it has been used at track days.

3) Does the air con work properly? I am in Brisbane and this is very important :banana:

4) Have the timing belt/water pump been replaced? Any belts replaced?

I am pretty interested pending answers.

hey mate

1) no dyno sheet..only previous owners word. yes it is laggy, full boost hits in around 4000-4500 rpm, but wen it hits..it hits hard

2) havn't done any tests on the motor while i've owned it.. but i do understand ur concern. i guess the onli way would be for u to see it for urself and do wateva tests..but being in brisbane that is a problem

3) air con is warm, i never touch it.

4) havn't replaced any belts during my 6 months of ownership. onli things mechanical i have replaced are coil packs, sparkies, and exhaust gasket.

i guess thats 4 fails lol.. thanks for ur interest anyways. and good questions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...