Jump to content
SAU Community

Cooler Pipe Blown Off

Sambo33

By Sambo33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sambo33 Grand Master

Sambo33

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

i went for a bit of a drive today, while going along a short straight i gave it full boost and POP, off came one of the cooler pipes. i know its best to leave the car idleing roughly as it does, but i could not for the life of me keep the car running no matter how hard i tried :banana:

the turbo is a highflowed journal bearing t3/t4 with a vg30 exhaust housing, it would have only got less than a minutes worth of idle before it stalled completely. my question is could i have damaged the turbo by all this happening??

it took me a minute or 2 before i reconnected the pipe and started it running again, the car runs fine but i havent given it any boost yet because i need a new clamp.

thanks

Sam.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199119-cooler-pipe-blown-off/
Share on other sites
BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted

Not too sure why you'd want to keep the car running with a popped off cooler pipe. A quick shut down time is going to do less damage than trying to keep the car running with unmetered air entering the engine.

Shouldn't have done any damage though, everyone has it happen to them at some stage and I haven't heard of busted engine or turbo from it.

Sambo33 Grand Master

Sambo33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Not too sure why you'd want to keep the car running with a popped off cooler pipe.

so the oil keeps flowing through the turbo, so it cools off a bit. my tuner instructed me to keep the car running for at least a minute or two if the cooler pipe pops off.

the engines all good, i was just a bit worried about the turbo

BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

Posted
Posted
so the oil keeps flowing through the turbo, so it cools off a bit. my tuner instructed me to keep the car running for at least a minute or two if the cooler pipe pops off.

the engines all good, i was just a bit worried about the turbo

That was a rhetorical question. I know a hot shut down is not good for a turbo but trying to make your car idle without an afm is worse.

Sambo33 Grand Master

Sambo33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
That was a rhetorical question. I know a hot shut down is not good for a turbo but trying to make your car idle without an afm is worse.

yeah no probs mate :thumbsup:

i know what u are saying though, i smoked out everything with unburn fuel while i was trying to keep it running!

im pretty sure everything is ok, ill clamp it all up good tomorrow and see how it goes.

Tee-CnC Enthusiast

Tee-CnC

Posted
Posted

yep thats exactly what happened to me this morning on the way to work, it was nice and cool in the morning so i had it on full boost.

Pop, and i was reving but was not going anywhere. Had to pull over on the freeway. It had me worry because it never happened to me before. Its all fix now so all good. :(

rockabilly Rising Star

rockabilly

Posted
Posted

should be fine mate. the reason the car stalled was the afm,s when you blow a pipe of you loose pressure to the engine and the afm,s so it should stall unless you run map sensors, as for the turbo, true standing still after a hot burst is not good but it only does harm when you dont start the car up again for hours,hen the oil has time to harden , you started within minutes, i would not worry mate.be fine..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...