Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok yesturday i got my first yellow sticker.. i got it for my blow of value and my boost guage. The BOV is no prob to take out because i have all the stock parts at home it only a 10min job.. but now i have a few questions..

- how much would a permit for my boost guage cost? the police officer said it should be free but im not sure.

- and also on my defect notice is says "permit for blow of valves" and "Permit for guage on dash".. does this mean if i leave my BOV on i should be fine to pass or should i take it off just to be sure?

- and my last question is, are they going to check my whole car or just the things he has writen down.. becasue i took my child restraints off... not really a hard job to put them back on but if i dont need to then i dont really want to.

Thanks

PS. im in WA if there laws are different from state to state.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199476-yellow-sticker-question/
Share on other sites

hey, yeh permits cost very lil. last time i checked it was like $35 per mod. dont quote me on it. but it should be around that mark. what they will do is site it, check that it is fitted correctly and working in the proper manor then right down what it is, what it does and what part of the car it belongs to(i think) ie engine. you get a sheet of paper(the permit) saying its all legal and from then on you have to keep the paper in your car at all times. plus you can always add to the list if you wish

blow off valve must by law be plumb-back in wa and pit inspection is a complete road worthiness so make sure its up to scratch

spot on! bov must no be atmospheric....

as for the gauge, never heard of that. when i got a yellow on mine didnt blink twice at mine :P

x2

spot on! bov must no be atmospheric

Where is your Boost gauge mounted???

There is no rule that says you can't add a gauge to the car just that it can't

be on the A piller if they are above the height of your Speedo.. (like the s15 import)

This is QLD rules but seam to be the same across the board...

This is taken from the QLD Transport Modification hand out.. Ill put the PDF here of the whole book

and ill make a new thread with the some other modification rule books for any one who wants it...

Any additional internal or external gauges must:

not interfere with the field of view of the driver

not produce glare to the driver

not have the possibility of an oil pressure line, or similar, breaking with pressurised fluids spraying onto the windscreen

be fitted in such a way to reduce the risk of injury to the vehicle occupants or pedestrians.

Modifications_book.pdf

Just to clarify, a BOV is not an illegal modification as the car came with a BOV in the very first place (stock though) - hence, if it's aftermarket as long as it's 100% plumbed back and not atmospheric, then you should be fine although just go to stock.

WTH, boost guage illegal? WTH? Unfortunately, it's up to the cop and his dog to issue defect notices - so if he says that, you'll have to comply and clear that defect notice or else you're up the creek.

I never heard about complying mods and getting certificates for them - however, I heard that you can get an engineers certificate for all your vehicle's modifications? However, it would be more than $35 a mod surely.

Just go back to stock and then get the canary cleared.

Good luck mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...