Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there,

Build a rb25de + rb30e, Aftermarket set of cam shafts, And been told to use flat top pistons for the higher comp.

But after having a look at stock rb30e pistons, there are ingraves for the valves to 'sit' Wouldnt flat tops + Aggressive cams mean theres a good chance something is going to kiss each other... hard.?

I know there is a thread with 290 pages of rb30de convo goodness but bloody hell!

*Injector upgrade? Its going to be NA, will the rb25de 'jectors be enough?

*Anymore pointers would be great!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199902-rb30de/
Share on other sites

have a look at this..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...sp-t194033.html

I heard of people using both sets of pistons..

Injectors should be ok.. unless your wianting to push more than say 130kw.. then RB25DET is the go.. cheap alutnatives.. same with a fuel pump..

Where are you getting ur cams from?.. from a turbo? NA's get more power from the overlap in the cams.. so if your using turbo cams you may not be extracting the full potential out of the engine..

Also.. the CR your running will also determin if things go bump in your engine..

max stock regrounded cams is on the link above too..

Hope it helps mate

Edited by GTS4WD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199902-rb30de/#findComment-3560171
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...