Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26dett, Wheres The Flutter?

buzurk

By buzurk,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

buzurk Newbie

buzurk

Posted
Posted (edited)

Got a R32 GTR and im in love with flutter OMGULEH, yes gay i know! but anyway !

more to the question, the car had twin HKS SSQ Bovs, which i have disconnected (just by removing vaccume hose and plugging the vaccum line up on the hose and on the bov

now the car kinda flutters, but nothing like it should considering the HKS ram pods and front mount!!

where the 2x pods are those 2x intake pipes, there is also some black weird shaped/bend pipe coming from turnbo area too, somone i know reckons this is stock bov or something ?>

Edited by buzurk
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201898-rb26dett-wheres-the-flutter/
Share on other sites
femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted
it alright man. there's only a handful of these replies to come.

someone will try to work it out for ya.

for future reference... Flutta = OMGULEH!

So please make sure you use that in your future posts regarding fluttaz

Every time i see a post from you it always has 'OMGULEH' or 'fluttaz' or some shit like that...get over it mate.

If you just disconnected the hose, youll most likely have a boost leak because you dont have the boost pressure holding the bovs shut...but anyway. You needa block off the BOV entirely, take them off and put a bit of coke can in between or something...

unix Enthusiast

unix

Posted
Posted
maybe your front mount isn't on flutta mode.

I think his a 17year old in flutter mode to be honest reading this topic.

I was into that with my tx3 laser like 5years ago like someone just said " get over it mate"

when u hear a bov 50,0000times u dont care wat it sounds like.. that flutter is reversion anyway really good for your turbos like also someone has said...........usually only flutters with low revs to haha.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
where the 2x pods are those 2x intake pipes, there is also some black weird shaped/bend pipe coming from turnbo area too, somone i know reckons this is stock bov or something ?>

Your talking about the return pipe from the BOV's?

Its not really hard to workout (if thats now what it is), just follow the pipe and see where it goes.

But yeah, just disconnecting the line wont work dude... think about it... vac line holds it shut, not it isnt

They must be blanked off totally at the BOV's. :D

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
it alright man. there's only a handful of these replies to come.

someone will try to work it out for ya.

for future reference... Flutta = OMGULEH!

So please make sure you use that in your future posts regarding fluttaz

Mate, give it a rest - Your constant smart ass responses across various threads are wearing a little thin.

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted

^^ meh its all fun and games mate, most of the time i lose it at his posts

if i posted questions like "how do i stick another muffler in my exhaust cause i like the sound i air coming out of a compressor?" even though i knew it would reduce the performance in my performance orienated car, i would EXPECT to get smart ass replies, after all its a stupid thing to do.

Also this topic has been covered a million times aswell, if people dont search they deserve abit of lip.

this is of course imo...

GTR-80Y Mentor

GTR-80Y

Posted
Posted
Got a R32 GTR and im in love with flutter OMGULEH, yes gay i know! but anyway !

more to the question, the car had twin HKS SSQ Bovs, which i have disconnected (just by removing vaccume hose and plugging the vaccum line up on the hose and on the bov

now the car kinda flutters, but nothing like it should considering the HKS ram pods and front mount!!

where the 2x pods are those 2x intake pipes, there is also some black weird shaped/bend pipe coming from turnbo area too, somone i know reckons this is stock bov or something ?>

Errr the stock bov's would have been in the same place your HKS SSQ's were....which is in the front right hand corner behind the front bar, nowhere near the turbos. Unless u have the HKS ones custom mounted somewhere? Either way they would of been blocked already if this is the case. As said earlier u still need to block off the hks ones, bit of coke can aluminium is a good choice....i used roof guttering on my old gtst.

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted
Mate, give it a rest - Your constant smart ass responses across various threads are wearing a little thin.

No. Threads asking how to get flutter are wearing a little thin.

Why don't you just lock them and say search like you should?

How many different people have to say "block off the bov and all associated pipes and lines to it" in every single one of these threads?

Why not create a thread dalled "FLUTTER" and sticky it with links to a search for the word flutter?

Where in the rules does it say "smart ass responses to threads which have been covered a MILLION times before will get you a warning"?

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted (edited)

In defence of GTST, I must say although he may be quite blunt and sarcastic in his replies, he is in fact right. He merely tells it like it is.

In reply to the thread starter. 9 pages of bov and flutter goodnes.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...=%2Bbov+flutter

Search is your friend.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/search.html

loctitethreadlockstickblue.jpg

Edited by KeyMaker
GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

meh, i used to be concerned bout the ppl that own GTR's too. I think bout reasons they were created, the records they broke, hence the attribs they own, and cringe...Tis a free world i guess.. who are we to scrorn those with candied, de-called dumped R's on 23" dubs wida blue tints, 18" subs, packing 240rwkw of ebay air filtered, overboosted R&R doosing goodness? Seems police 101 training includes the "profiling" of the average Skyline driver antway.. alas

I trust the mantence and insurance costs forces them to sell up for a black mid 90's Bemma :(:D

Not that I myself am profiling.. hahah

Edited by GeeTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...