Melb: Seat Covers, Turbosmart Bov, Stock Rims, Stock Bov, Cat-back Twin Tip Exhaust..... And A Coilover =d
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The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ? You may not have noticed, of course. Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?) fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced' out by small movements of the proportioning valve. From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'. That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc). The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues. If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally. Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately. Amayama is showing AUD900+. I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise. The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course. The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper. -
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