Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's my problem....

I'm at the stage where I have upgraded most of the basics. I purchased the car bone stock about 6 weeks ago, and so far the list of mechanical mods is as follows:

- front mount intercooler

- Apexi power FC

- Apexi AVC-R

- Blitz 3" system

- 3" high flow cat

- custom turbo-cat front pipe

- HKS air filter

- all running 1.0 Bar

and that's about it.

Now, I know I'm going to need injectors soon, as my electronics are giving me all sorts of warnings about high injector duty cycles, and I know that the lifespan of the stock turbo is limited at those boost levels. What I would like to know, is what sort of recommendations would you guys (my fellow forum members) recommend for the next stage?

I would like to take the car to about 250-300rwkw, and would like to maintain some level of everyday driveability (is that asking too much? I don't know).

What types of turbo should I be looking at, what sorts of injectros are suitable for the job, and the relaitve costs involved (ballpark figures are fine).

Thanks in advance for any feedback you might be able to offer. Before I get slated for not checking the archives or FAQ, I have, and couldn't find anything applicable to my question! I've had a brief look around on the web to no avail and thought I'd put it to you guys.

Thanks,

Simon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2022-r33-gts-turbo-upgrade-options/
Share on other sites

your car is about the same level of mine.

my next step would be turbo.

-HKS 3040 unit is an excellent match. bit laggy but will get you the power you are after easy. water cooled too.

-external wastegate (the unit only comes with external wastegate)

-exhaust manifold (have to get it in order for the turbo to fit)

-injectors (size is up to you, around 700cc would do)

-custom plenum (to get the most out of the big turbo)

-fuel pump (you are increasing air flow so you will need an increase in fuel)

if you have money to spend (and it seems like you do) strengthen your internals too.

also don't make the mistake of ignoring your suspension as this plays an important part to your overall speed. many ppl just go for the go-fast-bits and forget the one thing that makes your car fun to drive.

goodluck;)

I've got over 300rwkw in my 33 gts25t... And if you want that much power, I can guarantee you that you're not going to get out of it without doing internals...

550cc injectors are good for up to 330rwkw, so I would probably suggest them as your best (ie: cheapest) option...

Scour the papers and wreckers for 2nd hand turbo kits (JMS etc)... You might just get lucky, I found a Trust TD07 full kit (ext gate, manifold, dump and turbo nice and cheap for my car...

- Budget around 8-10k for a decent motor build drive in drive out... You can do it cheaper, but in the long run, it'll probably come back and bite you in the arse... Oh, and don't expect to see your car for about 3 months...

- 2-8k for the turbo kit depending on whether you get one 2nd hand or new...

- As with what ONARUN said, spend some money on suspension and brakes too... It's all fun and games to have a car which accelerates quickly (hey, mine'll spin the wheels all the way to 160) but unless it can stop and corner just as well, then it's dangerous. There's about 2k for suspension, and the same again for brakes...

- You'll also need to factor in your ancillaries such as fuel pump, injectors, new clutch, z32 afm, cam gears, metal head gasket etc etc etc... These little bits and pieces can end up costing 4-6k as well.

- Custom Plenum isn't really necessary... I'm running the stock one on my car without too many problems... You might, however, want to invest in a larger throttle body...

- If your car is well built, and tuned well then there's no reason that it's not just as drivable as it is now. Don't listen to people who say big turbo's are laggy... They obviously haven't driven a properly set up car with one. My car starts to make boost as early as 3000rpm, and by 4000rpm I've got over 190rwkw. Which is more than what most of these guys have at redline. Your given the impression that it's laggy because there's so much additional power available.

My car is more drivable now, than before I did the upgrade with my small VG30 high flow... It makes more power at any given rpm than my old setup.

As you can see, the costs very quickly get up there... You call a place and get a quote on a motor build, double the quote. You'd be surprised how many little things pop up along the way (which initially seem insignificant, but when you add them up they start getting expensive).

Not many people end up going this far with their car (Although they talk about doing it) because the costs are so high. For a reliable 300rwkw, that's what it's going to cost you.

For 250rwkw, you might be able to get away without having to do the motor, which'll save you big $$$.

matt

Thanks very much fellas for your informative and comprehensive posts. It is certainly food for thought.

I'll take your advice on board and let you know which way I go.

The points you've made are all sensible, and I understand what you're getting at.

Thanks again.

Simon.

Kirby - u asked where I got all the mods from....

firstly, I live in brisbane, so this info may be pointless, but here goes:

fmic - purchased kit from ARE (www.are.com.au) $2140, fitted it myself

power fc - bought it off ebay for $1650 incl hand controller, fitted it myself, but got it tuned properly by Chapman & Chapman (Woolloongabba, Deshon street)

afc-r - purchased, fitted and tuned @ C&C (as above)

front dump pipe - Custom Exhaust Systems (Geebung) $675

HKS filter - jap spares in sydney via internet

high flow cat - C&C about $200

blitz cat-back - on the car when I bought it.

hope that helps. I have phone numbers / websites for all of the above if you want them. I'd have to look them up, but let me know if you need them.

Cheers,

Simon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...