Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Had a search - I've never looked into driveshaft upgrades for my 33 gtst - I'd like to know if 33gtr driveshafts are a bolt in into a 33 gtst.

If not I'd like to just replace the cv's in mine - looks like you have to pull them out and take them to a specialist though? Has anyone here done them themselves? I've fixed up commodore driveshafts before and that was a mission!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203983-r33-gtr-driveshafts-into-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

driveshafts wont bolt up to stock gtst, ive recently changed to a complete gtr rear end (shafts, diff, axels etc etc)

if u compare the size of each model you'll then realise its worth it ( if u have the power to break them)

Ok - no not the tail shaft the driveshafts from diff to hubs. Anyone here though done up the '33 driveshafts? I'm making 260ish rwkw and would like to start going through driveshafts, wheel bearings etc as it's done over 100000k's and I hate breaking things on the road.

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
Ok - no not the tail shaft the driveshafts from diff to hubs. Anyone here though done up the '33 driveshafts? I'm making 260ish rwkw and would like to start going through driveshafts, wheel bearings etc as it's done over 100000k's and I hate breaking things on the road.

Cheers

With r32 i know u have to change the whole rear cradle as the shafts dont go into a stock gtst diff. I assume this would be the same for 33. Best bet is to get a whole rear cradle from a wrecked 33gtr.

  • 1 month later...

thats the same with R34's as Adam (abo bob) did the same with his 34.

So speaking of drive shafts - besides swapping the whole rear cradle (looks like thats the only way to get GTR drive shafts in) what are other replacement drive shafts?

Mine need replacing... lol

I did the conversion on adams car some time ago.

Basicly you need the diff, shafts and the hubs. The rest all bolts straight up to the GTs-t. you do need to swap the yoke on the front of the diff but its one bug nut so nothing difficult.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...