Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys having a problem with my car if anyone knows whats going on and can tell me your thoughts that would be great...

Ill start off by saying i just put in a boost gauge and boost controller (bleed valve) I put new heavy duty clamps on my intercooler yesturday so that I can boost my 32 without the intercooler pipe falling off all the time.. stock 7 psi i boosted it to 9psi when i got my new clutch fitted about a week ago but i wasnt thrashing it at all because the pipe fell off twice so i was taking it easy till i put in the new clamps.. so got the new clamps on so i increased the boost by 2 more PSI which shouldve made it 11 PSI but when i was running it, it was only showing 9 still.. so turned boost down to 7 and went up 4 PSI to make it 11 but now the boost gauge is showing 7 PSI... anyone know whats going on here?

Any help would be good...

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204150-boost-not-showing/
Share on other sites

if it feels like its boosting right, i'd be looking at the boost controller accuracy, and the lines going to it.

if the car feels like its not making the higher boost, then check your boost controller. the turbotech type can get stuck. the spring gets caught on the threads inside, and the ball doesnt move freely. open it up and put it back together.

i just put it back to stock then i clicked it 4 times and it worked and it was fine then i clicked it 1 more because i wanted it at 12PSI and now its stalling everytime its not in gear so i put it down 1 like it was before but still stalling alot might be a boost leak...

nah the BOV is blocked..

i just clicked the boost back to stock 7 but its still showing it as running 9-10 wtf? dunno whats going on here.. car stalls so much everytime im slowing down to like take a corner or something i have to put the h/brake up if ive got someone in front of me and rev it a bit so it doesnt stall.. driving me nuts coz i cant drive properly!

Anyone have an idea?

Faulty boost gauge? Get a friend who has a working one and test it out.

The car is stalling? you must have over boosted it the first time and now you have a cooler pipe leak. Recheck all the clamps and hoses, and look where the boost controler is, kinda sounds to me like one of the houses must have a hole in there, happened to me a few times

get a friend to check it out and c what happens, then again you can always go to a mechanic

hmmm. i got a bosch 040 fuel pump in there with full tank of bp ultimate.. really hard to drive now.

when i floor it in first to 5000rpm i switch to 2nd and then floor it but it doesnt feel like its really pulling at all, feels like the boost goes away... the BOV is blocked by this tube thing my mate put on, i dont think its that though, because it was fine before i put in the boost controller and gauge, heavy duty clamps and boosted it. getting it checked from my mate tomorrow, also gotta put in a new clutch master cylinder.. hopefully it gets fixed tomorrow

It should be running 10psi stock as the R32 turbos have a 10psi actuator on them so they cannot run any less boost unless you have a huge leak or something similar.

Maybe your bleeder isn't set correctly and is leaking boost or even the BOV if its not blocked correctly it will leak boost pressure, as they are designed to do.

Hook up the wastegate lines as normal and make sure you have blocked the BOV off properly then try it again.

Where did you run the line for the boost gauge from?

Worse comes to worse I will have a look for you, your just down the road.

Let me know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...