Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everyone knows the R32 fuse trick to convert to 2WD, but i was reading the R33 service manual and it says;

2WD Setting, Remove air evacuation connector, depress the brake 5 times within 10 seconds after placing ignition to on

then follows by saying remove the front shaft,

just wondering if the 32 uses this air evacuation system and is that why u can just pull a fuse on a 33.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204549-2wding-an-awd-r33/
Share on other sites

the reason u cant just pull the fuse out in an r33 is because the ATESSA is run eletronically and also with 33s and 34s there is always i think 5% of torque goin to the front wheels. In R32s 100% of torque is goin to the rear wheels until loss of traction or too many gs and also the 32s ATESSA system is run by a motor and oil.

theres lots of threads about this use the search button

hope this helps

vinnie

I'm new here so treat me gently. How does the attessa system handle different rolling diametres within front rear tyres? does the % torque system take care of the different speeds or do you have to have your tyres whithin a fraction of each other.?

im pretty sure u have to have the same size tyres all round other wise it starts to play up

Best way is to do as described... removing the front drive shafts etc

I've been told you can buy a controller but it'll f**k the plates in the transfer case over time if running 100% RWD mode

As described above, you can't just remove a fuse as it's always sending torque to the front wheels. Kinda sucks doesn't it..... but still, the handling advantages are worth it :thanks:

Edited by TommO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...