Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, New to the r33 gtst, just need some things clarified.

Current mods are:

2 stage boost control (Currently on 10psi)

FMIC

3.5inch Exhaust with cannon.

Questions I have are:

1. What is a safe amount of extra boost to run on the stock fuel/ignition/ecu setup?

2. Can someone explain the ecu. Does it self tune to adust?

3. What are the next best performance modifications to consider?

4. Does not have a bov, what is the best sounding, and best for maintaining spool between gear changes?

Cheers guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204711-r33-questions/
Share on other sites

Hi guys, New to the r33 gtst, just need some things clarified.

Current mods are:

2 stage boost control (Currently on 10psi)

FMIC

3.5inch Exhaust with cannon.

Questions I have are:

1. What is a safe amount of extra boost to run on the stock fuel/ignition/ecu setup?

2. Can someone explain the ecu. Does it self tune to adust?

3. What are the next best performance modifications to consider?

4. Does not have a bov, what is the best sounding, and best for maintaining spool between gear changes?

Cheers guys!

Safe amount of boost on the stock turbo - 12psi is pretty much as far as you want to go, and even thats taking a risk. Some people get lucky and it lasts ages, and sometimes it dies in no time...luck of the draw.

The ECU might not like going past 10psi, and it might go into boost cut etc....again, some do some dont.

Next mod for you would be some form of engine management...either standalone ECU such as the pfc if you can find 1 (they're discontinued for the 33 gts-t) or 1 of the alternatives. You could also go piggyback with an SAFC2 etc.

As for the BOV, the factory plumb back works fine. If you want a 'cool' sound you'll have to speak to people with different brands/types to find the 1 you want, but it may cause problems with stalling etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204711-r33-questions/#findComment-3626399
Share on other sites

Safe amount of boost on the stock turbo - 12psi is pretty much as far as you want to go, and even thats taking a risk. Some people get lucky and it lasts ages, and sometimes it dies in no time...luck of the draw.

The ECU might not like going past 10psi, and it might go into boost cut etc....again, some do some dont.

Next mod for you would be some form of engine management...either standalone ECU such as the pfc if you can find 1 (they're discontinued for the 33 gts-t) or 1 of the alternatives. You could also go piggyback with an SAFC2 etc.

As for the BOV, the factory plumb back works fine. If you want a 'cool' sound you'll have to speak to people with different brands/types to find the 1 you want, but it may cause problems with stalling etc.

Cheers Dez!!!

How far can the factory turbo go? And what are the compressor sizes on them?

What is the suggested replacement turbo? Plus, is a manifold upgrade worth it? To maybe a tuned length?

Of course this would be after some ecu/fuel upgrades.

All in time I suppose!

I have modified my turbo falcon with a wolf3d,inj, gt35/40 but was dissapointed with the decreased driveability it caused. Did reach 280rwkw though. Hope to match it with the 33.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204711-r33-questions/#findComment-3626461
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forums.

Let me point you to a quick few links

1. The "bible" of SAU Forced Induction

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...ick-t66556.html

It contains many links like below

"First mods"

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...-co-t45218.html

Also the "Dyno thread" is a great read

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html

Have a look at peoples mods, what power/response it attained and workout what suits you and what you want.

280rwkw isn't a cheap adventure, so you should do a lot more reading up on things before undertaking any serious modifications.

Lots of info on these forums about all power levels from stock to 500rwkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204711-r33-questions/#findComment-3626582
Share on other sites

Cheers Dez!!!

How far can the factory turbo go? And what are the compressor sizes on them?

What is the suggested replacement turbo? Plus, is a manifold upgrade worth it? To maybe a tuned length?

Of course this would be after some ecu/fuel upgrades.

All in time I suppose!

I have modified my turbo falcon with a wolf3d,inj, gt35/40 but was dissapointed with the decreased driveability it caused. Did reach 280rwkw though. Hope to match it with the 33.

I'll answer what I can...

The turbo, like I said 12psi is the suggested max, and it probably won't make any more power past 12psi anyway, just increase the risk of it failing....it could last 2 years on 12psi, it could last 2 minutes. Not sure on compressor size sorry.

Suggested replacement, thats kind of a broad question...there's a big selection of size/brand etc so it'll be up to what kind of power/response you're chasing.

I personally run a HKS GT-RS on my 33. Forged bottom end etc, standard manifold, the GT-RS is a direct bolt on. It'll max out at about 270-280rwkw with supporting mods, and is 1 of the more responsive turbo upgrades for the RB25DET.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204711-r33-questions/#findComment-3626605
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...