Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depends what u need it for? If u are on a budget i'd say R31 - coz it sounds like ur gonna go the way of the Skyline in the future. Plus parts and availability for these cars will be plentiful considering they were locally sold.

Both Civic and Corolla are good options 2 (modification friendly like the old skool Skyzerr). More petrol efficient if u want 2 to save a bit of money.

Ive been looking for a car for a while as mine is SH!T. anyway in a recent zoom magazine (No. 53) they have an article on the best performance buys for under $10,000. Here it is:

1989-91 MX6 Turbo

1987-88 VL Turbo

1987-89 MR2 AW11

1989-89 R31 GTS/Passage

1986-89 Commodore VN-VP V8

1978-85 RX7 Series 1-3

1989-98 Swift GTi

1987-94 205 GTi

1987-90 Laser TX3 4WD Turbo

1982-87 Starion JB-JD

for more info on then cars just ask cause there other stuff like power, torque, weight, kg,kW, 0-100 and 400M. also theres insurance prices which are helpfull

You need to work out what you want from the car. Do you want space? Is performance important? How many doors? What sort of transmission? Can you afford to keep it going? etc

Wagon, sedan, hatch, 4WD?

Remember running costs...

Aus cars and older Jap cars are cheap to service. 4cyls are better on petrol than 8cyls. Rotaries can be quite thirsty.

Corollas are great. They are cheap to buy and run. Sure - most are FWD, but they are still quite zippy. Alternatively, you could get an Aus delivered Sprinter (AE85 RWD) and as you save up, swap the engine for a 4AGE or 4AGZE. This way you can learn how a RWD car handles without having too much power to start.

Euros are very expensive to maintain. Older turbos may need expensive work soon. The more complex the car is - the more expensive it is to fix.

For under $10k I'd look at a Japanese 4cyl. Mazda 323, Ford Laser, Toyota Corolla, Mitsubishi Lancer. Cheap, fun and reasonable to maintain.

Just my 2c

Oh - if you want a 4WD, Ladas aren't as bad as people make out :)

This may sound antinissan but if you go to the tradingpost auto trader website there is a Toyota sprinter for sale for 5K. I think the person has swapped the 4AC engine with a rebuilt 4-AGE rebuilt version. sounds really nice, cheaper than an import version and it already has suspension and wheels I think. you could do that up a bit with cams and stuff.

Guest Dark Sky 33

Xeaon

full member

Registered: Oct 2002

Location:

Car:

Im also 17soon and will be getting my P's. Im looking at getting a non-turbo skyline. GTS4 R33 infact. Or GTS R32. Are non-turbo skylines really that bad? And would insurance be much cheaper than a turbo'ed skyline. If anyone who is 17,18 with has a non-turbo skyline let me know roughly how much their insurance cost that would be great. Thanks.

Yeah, im 18 and bought a n/a skyline dude, i looked all around for insurance as a turbo....and nobody will insure a turbo at my age, even as a second driver in my old mans name, they wont touch me. Im paying $700 p.a insurance for my 94 n/a......thats with agreed value of 17k, bodykit, rims ect ect,

Adam

Guest gtst88

just get a simple car to learn the basic and fundamentals of driving ..

i got a damn 1.8 twin cam lancer coupe(in my country) when i first got my driving license ..

sweeet though .. even though it didnt have much power .. its a good car to learn te basics ..

cheers dude !

good luck in getting your Ps ..

Guest Dark Sky 33

Xeaon,

The insurance is under HBF, in my fathers name.....the excess is $900 buks......very nice for a first car, this is my second car, my first car was a beetle :(..go the herby's, just dont hit anything, i never made any damage in my first car.....if your a responsible driver then u should be ok, its the irresponsible pricks who run into you without insurance themselves...just watch out for them

Originally posted by holdens_r_better

Is the mitsubishi lancer a good car sounds cheap to run and i like the evo body kits you can get

ahaha plz dont get a lancer. Umm is import still an opinion cuz u can import S13 for around 5K -> 10k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...