Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all thought i'd throw up some pic's of my one8 i'm trying to get together for the 08 vicdrift series.

Turbo is trust TD06 L2

stock donk

solid urethane mounts

trust sump

blah blah wank wank heres the pic's

red one8

P1000256.jpg

L2 biarch!

P1000266.jpg

intake pipe.....probably could have done a few cuts to make it look more "custom fabed" but i'm a lazy sod!

P1000294.jpg

I mounted the cooler and rad behind the rad support to decrease piping lengtht and prevent damage to those systems in the event of a little "nudge" lol

P1000302.jpg

I also mounted the AFM (GTR nismo) in the throttle body side of the piping so it dosn't get affected by the remission "flutter" that would normally blow back past it on closed throttle. and because BEN told me to put it there.....lol

P1000293.jpg

P1000288.jpg

P1000289.jpg

i was quite nervous taking apart the nismo AFM......put it still works fine. yay!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204905-new-drift-one8-for-08/
Share on other sites

from the front...you can see the brackets that hold the intercooler up level with the top of the rad.this setup also makes for easy ducting!

P1000300.jpg

the AFM mounted in its new little home

P1000314.jpg

the piping on the hot side shal be a bit easier.......once again my lazyness playing a part here..

P1000301.jpg

gunna need to weld a bend onto the turbo.....will look neater and wont "pop off" under hard boost and high temps.....as they like to do.

P1000311.jpg

wasn't real keen taking a hack saw to my NEW trust L2 either!

P1000311.jpg

but it worked out ok.........if you do this remember to let it cool down very slowly.....i rapped it in a blanket straight after welding.

P1000312.jpg

cooler brackets....

P1000319.jpg

rusty bit of angle iron for the rad support underneath....

P1000297.jpg

Because the rad is now so close to the motor i need to make the rad piping to suit......actually i should say "we"...my house mate is the welder.....i just cut and tell him what i want...lol

P1000295.jpg

just to confuse you here's the gearbox mount.......didn't see that coming did ya?

P1000268.jpg

gotta silicon the AFM top back on to keep out the nasties..

P1000318.jpg

starting to come together..

P1000317.jpg

The rad piping.....like all drifters/home owners i'm broke so am to "tight" to buy pretty silicon for the rad...

P1000320.jpg

the bottom line proved to be more of a head ache to make than its worth........but i had already cut up the original to join the top line. :D

P1000321.jpg

this bit= not worth the pain! keep your stock one or if you must upgrade buy a silicon one!

P1000323.jpg

I'll prob put up some more pic's later......so check back

Cheers Waz

Looks great Warwick.

is that a Cast elbow welded onto the compressor housing? where from?

love builds like this over the normal bolt on style stuff, so much more rewarding.

only thing i would have done different is have the AFM box under the pipe - or is it too close to the fan ?

edit : few days on a polishing wheel and the will look amazing

yeah the fan is close.....but so is the bonnet when shut either way if you were gunna do this be sure to check clearences first.

If ya look close in this one you can see the engine mounts....solid as a rock....stearing wheel vibrates a little.....just adds to the feel.

P1000264.jpg

got my seats and pimp fur in as well! yay

P1000296.jpg

this is the car before i bought it....a long time ago.......Trents old car i believe....It has street cred as it has be thrashed by a D1 driver.... lol

avatar5.jpg

I still have to make a custom oil catch can and a rad over flow bottle...coming soon

spaced the bonnet up as i'm a tight ass and cant afford a vented fibre glass one.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-2.jpg

close up of the bend and hot pipe.....i cut down the bend and the turbo housing to make the bend look tighter.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-1.jpg

The radiator i bought from JUST JAP leaked like a cive! from around the cap fitting so i ripped it off and welded on a speedflow item! much better.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-6.jpg

Finished piping pic...still need overflow and catch can....

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnerguards.jpg

just enough room to fit my temp gauge sensor.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-7.jpg

Brake booster stopper....sard 550 injectors

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-8.jpg

im not sure how the sr20's are in this area, but the step down on the oil breather i would avoid - reduce anychance of a restriction pressurising the motor -

rb25's dont like too small piping on the breathers

I have fitted a power bond under size harmonic balancer to reduce cavitation in the water pump and powerstearing issue's. I also fitted a Trust sump for extra oil cappacity.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-11.jpg

sparco wheel and pedals, cusco hand brake grip, water temp,oil pressure and boost gauge fitted.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-9.jpg

closer look at the finshed hot pipe side.

pinkyatwintonandseatsandinnergua-10.jpg

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Nice work on the pipes bit late know but for next time try useing spun donut's for those really tight rad's save doing all tose lobster back joint and welds if you need to know were to get them pm me back and I'll send you in right direction

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...