Jump to content
SAU Community

Insurance Problem Question

snoopy4eva
 Share

Recommended Posts

snoopy4eva Enthusiast

snoopy4eva

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey all,

I'm planning on getting a r34 Gtt around June but i have an insurance question.

I'll be 21 when i get the car and i live in Canberra.

My problem is this...

In november last year i had a small micro sleep due to stress of exams while i was driving and crashed my car into the side railing. Nothing serious but the damage was more than the car was insured for (it was just a Hyundai Lantra 95 model). The insurance was under NRMA and was handled by my parents but it is recorded that I was the one that caused the accident.

Now how much of a problem does this pose for me? I'm assuming this would need to be declared right? I'm thinking Just Car.

Edited by snoopy4eva
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205099-insurance-problem-question/
Share on other sites
Skyrin3 Community Regular

Skyrin3

Posted
Posted

Your Premium being 21 is going to be huge, its turbo and you have had an accident and its am import as well. I would expect no less then $3000 a year for full comp on a GTT. Justcar would be the way to go. I am 22 and justcar was the only company that would insure my gtst and it was $1900 but i had never had an accident.

I would just ring around its free to get a quote

casuarina26 Explorer

casuarina26

Posted
Posted

I've just insured my R34 GT-V with Shannons I'm 49 & it cost me just over a $1000 (twice my commodore's premium), you can pay by the month with Shannons & it doesn't cost any more. NRMA was about $1200 or $1300 to pay by the month Shannons was cheaper than Just Car.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
ok i just gave them a call and they said i'm looking at $2900. Which is better than i was expecting.

Not declaring the accident would be illegal right?

it would be f**king stupid... might as well just burn the $2900 and drive round uninsured

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...