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any chance of separating the filler panel matey?

im hopeing to enter my R30 hatch in the skyline nationals in vic at the end of july.... would luc yo have the front finished by then

the R34 side-mount cooler im useing fits under the iron mask headlight alot better than the oz spec series 1 or 2 (i have both)

if i have to use the oz spec then i need to move my air con dryer or something (cant remember exactly the name), which i dont wanna do as i like the air cons!

or im slightly considering useing it as a top mount over where the stock airbox lid is...

SO.... whats the go

gday, sorry mate dont want 2 seperate as it was the hardest bit 2 get and p have trouble selling the rest without it. unless i was offer'd a stupid amout for it 2 offset what ill lose selling the rest seperate...

ive got a front mounted 1jz cooler in my dr30 atm that im selling due 2 upgrade includes polished alloy pipes, silicon hoses and bolts 2 the front side of radiator mounting points so all u need is long bolts and nuts. its for fj20et with tb and turbo in stock position, will include custom alloy turbo intake pipe with hks pod thingo $250 no a/c space tho...

jon.

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  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Thanks for documenting the process.
    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
    • Take the fall as a warning sign for future endeavours  Stay safe mate
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