Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lookin at gettin this zaust system....

noob to this exhaust stuff and limited knowledge of mechanics so plz dont go abusing me.....

this is a cat back exhaust system isnt it?

post-44636-1202963152_thumb.jpg

is the right upgrade on a 33 for better performance...dont need to go and get other parts for the zaust....? (like dump pipe and split this and that?)

let me know as u can see.....fairly knowledgless in this field!

any advice is welcome

Cheers

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206037-very-quick-exhaust-question/
Share on other sites

mate,

there will be some minor increase of power with a catback only exhaust but at the end of the day if a real power increase is what your after (and headroom for the future) the cat converter and the dump pipe are the weakest link in the standard exhaust.

if your just after a nicer note and some bling out the back then a cat back is fine.

Cheers

Camden

That does look like a cat back exhaust. Make sure it will actually fit your car. I would recommend getting a 3" split dump and front pipe aswell as a high flow cat. This will make a much more noticeable difference plus if you intend to do any more mods your gonna need to upgrade the whole exhaust not just the cat back

while im here and u can see my lack of knowledge in this area....

what does the split dump do? as well as the front pipe etc.....

may as well have these answered once and for all....

thanks

Thats a HKS Silent High Power catback exhaust, will fit your r33 perfect, i have one on my r33 gts25t, gave a decent gain but the biggest gain i got (after i had installed the catback) was replacing the cat converter with a decat pipe, which is illegal in aussie from what i know, so even just fitting a highflow cat should give you a decent gain to.

Edited by nizmo_freek
while im here and u can see my lack of knowledge in this area....

what does the split dump do? as well as the front pipe etc.....

may as well have these answered once and for all....

thanks

basically its just a way of combining the exhaust gases from the engine and the turbo's wastegate with minimal turbulence (hence better flow). with the standard setup the gases just collide with each other. its exactly the same theory as putting extractors on a naturally aspirated car.

This isn't prolly a bad idea anyway but i had to purchase a new O2 sensor (its an oxygen sensor that screws into your dump pipe) as the after market split dump had the mounting hole lower than the stock item and the current 02 sensor lead was to short. Went and got me a brand spanking new NTK from Bursons for i think like $80 (maybe less?) and fixed the issue. (as well as the vehicle probably running more efficient as 02 senors get a little destroyed from years of exhaust gas)

Cheers

Camden

looks to me like the cat is already welded in the exhaust so really you have a dump back :whistling:

im assuming thats a good thing then......

can someone else plz confirm or deny if this looks/or definately already has a cat on it?

thanks for all the info so far people!

Thats a JJR cat back exhaust ... the thing welded into the zorst is a small resonator <--- I know this cause I just had one put on plus split dump and Hi flow cat!!!

This item that you are looking at is a great fit ... mine runs about 10mm off the floor pan it does have quite close clearance to the hicas though which doesn't really matter :whistling:

I would recommend thought if you are buying it new to get yourself the JJR split dump pipe and high flow cat ...

The split dump pipe helps to rid your exhaust of turbulence around the back of the turbo which will allow the motor to flow more air and hence more power ... the split dump and cat will add more power with or without a cat back zorst.

You will need to probably re-gap you spark plugs down to 0.8mm though to avoid ignition problems :D

If this is your first round of mods I recommend:

*Front mount cooler kit

*Full turbo back zorst with split dump pipe and hi flow cat

*Boost controller set to 10 psi

The next round of mods after this start to become fairly expensive and include:

*Fuel pump

*ECU + tune

*Suspension and brake mods to help with safety and the increase in power.

Edited by BLK33T

umm there not that quite man ... rather loud actually

if you put just the dump and split pipe on it won't make it very much louder but if you put a cat back zorst on like this it will be quite loud in comparison to standard.

where you located I can show what it sound like if your around Wollongong :whistling:

so which zaust system are the quietest apart from stock?

want the extra power but not the noise.....

sorry im mid way up the qld coast line...u got this system on ur ride? or know of someone who has....?

^^^ yeah champ ... I've also got the split dump pipe and cat as well.

They made quite a difference to the power my car made ...

The best zorst you can get are from hi-tech mufflers in Sydney ...

Their exhausts give a wicked sound, will pass DB test .. they tested one on a R34 GTT in hot 4's vs a similar style exhaust as mine, and they make as much if not more power than the equivalent loud ARSE jap or massive cannon equipped zorst systems again this has been proven also.

The downsides are ...

They are in Sydney and they are expensive!

Thats a JJR cat back exhaust ... the thing welded into the zorst is a small resonator <--- I know this cause I just had one put on plus split dump and Hi flow cat!!!

This item that you are looking at is a great fit ... mine runs about 10mm off the floor pan it does have quite close clearance to the hicas though which doesn't really matter :whistling:

I would recommend thought if you are buying it new to get yourself the JJR split dump pipe and high flow cat ...

The split dump pipe helps to rid your exhaust of turbulence around the back of the turbo which will allow the motor to flow more air and hence more power ... the split dump and cat will add more power with or without a cat back zorst.

You will need to probably re-gap you spark plugs down to 0.8mm though to avoid ignition problems :D

If this is your first round of mods I recommend:

*Front mount cooler kit

*Full turbo back zorst with split dump pipe and hi flow cat

*Boost controller set to 10 psi

The next round of mods after this start to become fairly expensive and include:

*Fuel pump

*ECU + tune

*Suspension and brake mods to help with safety and the increase in power.

Thats not a JJR catback, its a HKS Silent High Power catback, its says SILENT On the exhaust tip (you can see it in the pics but not very clearly) ,i have the exact same one on my car.

And yes they are a bit loud (not drony though) ,far from being "silent"

i still think its a cat in there its bolts around the other way (from what someone suggested) you can see the hanger on the other end the hangers go at the back of the car, and you can also see the bend where it geos up to the dump pipe, i might be wrong though....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...