Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ppl,

I have a 33 GTST series 1.

Full exhaust, split dump then 3.5" from there back.

Splitfires

Apexi pod

FMIC

A autobahn88 silicone intake from pod to turbo.

Also running no BOV

plugs have done 9 thousand kays

got home from work, car was warm, and was running great.

Just fitted My PFC, I hit the ignition, set the boost kit to off ( to the little japo symbol that looks like a plus sign) started it, ran like shit, after 10 mins I hit the AC, then after 20 mins I turned on the demister, after 30 mins I let it run for a further 2 mins, shut car off, started it again, hit the throttle a tad, say to 2000 RPM and sounds like its running on 4 cylinders.

any ideas or input will be greatly appreciated

cheers

Edited by Mr. Untouchable

hi paul, thanks for the reply.

I checked the sensors, nothing was highlighted.

what to you mean version?

on the rb25det screen it comes up,

PowerFC

Ver 5.11

FC Commander3

Ver 5.01a

jsut checking - to be sure, to be sure

put the stock ECU back in - confirm it runs Ok and isnt mssing/ running on 4 cyclders

then if its OK and stable etc open up the FC look for burnt tracks or damaged components

is the FC new or used ? did you do factory DATA INIT before starting the car ?

i bought it brand new from access autoworks.

what do you mean factory data INIT? all i did was turn the boost control kit off and then turned the key and did the 30 minute idle set with , 10 mins of idle, another 10 with A/C on then the last 10 with demister on?

Had similar problem with mine, pluged in the power Fc and ran 4 cyc, put the factory ecu back in, ran on 6.

Put power Fc back in and realised the factory plug on the wiring loom gets a curve in it if the bolt is over tightened.

Either loosen the bolt or put cable ties around the plug and power Fc to pull the ends in tight. Ran perfect after that.

Had similar problem with mine, pluged in the power Fc and ran 4 cyc, put the factory ecu back in, ran on 6.

Put power Fc back in and realised the factory plug on the wiring loom gets a curve in it if the bolt is over tightened.

Either loosen the bolt or put cable ties around the plug and power Fc to pull the ends in tight. Ran perfect after that.

arrhh really?

mmm okay. will try that next..

will give that ago in the morning

well just put the FC back in, made sure the plug was in properly and it ran on all 6. brilliant!

awesome thanks for the advice guys.

I guess I might have to do the 30 minute idle set again??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...