Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

^^ lol true that ...

stock is the best bet for passing emissions ... plus using the cat that cam with your car originally will help a great deal.

when an import is complied they usually put one crazy restrictive cat in to help with noise and emissions

was pulled ova last night.

saw the coppa go past me, and chuck a u-turn at a set of traffic lights. u-turn was NOT permitted (illegal)...but it was a coppa so what can i say.

"excuse me sir this is a random breath test and rego check, licence pleasse"

then again, i was running the gauntlent at 330am in the morning :S

  • 3 weeks later...

Test should only be noise, try asking a compliance workshop thats been around for a while (eg. 60kph constant speed past sensor 3 meters away). Mid muffler is a good idea.

Pollution only goes as far as to check for a cat converter. An enclosed pod is absolutely fine for sure, though you could present evidence that the car was complied with the pod the way it is, chat with the people that complied the car originally if you can. Depending on the import/manufacture/compliance date it may have different compliance rules regarding pod filters. A cold air induction box with a coupple of pipes bringing air to the box will improve efficiency and is therefore a good idea though.

The cops don't know what mods are legal because different laws apply to different Australian manufacture/compliance dates on the same model car with the same production date in Japan.

Apparently you get a fine and then you get it cleared, not sure if you still have to pay the fine if it was complying in the first place?

Let us know how this goes, do they charge to do the testing, when I asked workshop they told me it costs about $3,500 to get the testing done and compliance certificate for mods?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...