Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

My car (r34 (GTT) was de-badged last night, the two side GT badges where taken.

I was wondering where I am able to get replacements, done a bit of a search through websites and ebay etc, and have had no luck.

I guess you could get them through Nissan maybe?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206198-gt-badges-where-from/
Share on other sites

Hey All,

My car (r34 (GTT) was de-badged last night, the two side GT badges where taken.

I was wondering where I am able to get replacements, done a bit of a search through websites and ebay etc, and have had no luck.

I guess you could get them through Nissan maybe?

Thanks in advance

Check these sites and choose your color/style. They have R32, 33 and 34 styles on the japanese yahoo auctions... it's just a matter of searching through hundreds of pages to find it if you can't read/type japanese.

http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r40920990

http://page14.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s85863326

You should ask slidewize since they have some sort of connection with the japanese yahoo auction.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...pan-t76361.html

If there's no luck there, you can contact www.rhdjapan.com and ask them. They'll help you out for sure but slidewize is local for you I think.

I'm after a set of blue badges myself.

Edited by chak8080

Easiest place to find them is your local nissan dealer with a parts department,

They can find the part you're after if you give them your Japanese VIN # on your car

usually next day delivery to them if the parts are in stock in melbourne (I'm in sydney)

expect to pay much more than they're worth though :ninja:

Edited by Yo-Yo

Thanks for the help guys & girls, I called a number of wreckers with no luck, however a mate knows a mate :teehee: that works at Duncan Nissan so he is going to check it out for me

Its amazing how just a missing little badge can ruin the whole look of a car :sweat: , just does not look right, thieving little bastards

Edited by cargle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...