Fs: 3.5" Jasma Exhaust For R33 Gts-t 2 Door
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I see what you mean on that last paragraph and makes sense. I am leaning towards because I made the repair/filler area large that I didn't use a long enough block. Will minimise the area and let you's know how I go. This is random but I noticed when I put epoxy primer it felt flat but that's just temporary. -
Tried to repair with filler only. The block is a foam block but quite hard and I put a velcro on it for sandpaper, the hook and loop system. It's not one of those super soft ones that just follow the panel. Similar to a dura block.
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You need one of those automated sprays that puffs a nice small every 15 minutes in their room. Except swap the nice smell for chloroform... -
Don't step down power supply size, maintain it the whole way. It's how I'd do it. OR, Id have one feed, with one joint that splits out to six smaller gauge wires that go to each coil. I wouldn't add joins like stepping from 12 to 16, at the first two coils, as if you try to continue that fashion, each joint will introduce a voltage drop. In theory, earths should be the same size as power feeds, however in this case the main power needs to be bigger due to the average size current. So the next question is, how much current do these coils actually need?
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I think Murray is onto it. It's sounding like either it's a soft block, not long enough block, OR if you're chasing waves, you're going in the direction of the waves, instead of across them. Rotate your sanding pattern by 45 degrees is something to try. You said you're going in an X, so now instead, from the same perspective, do a "t" instead. If you're not able to have the block sit on top of two high points, and not touch the low point between them, you'll never get it flat.
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