Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, I decided a few weeks ago to paint my brembo brakes on my GTR. They were all chipped due to stones, it is a 1996 after all. The last 2 years on NZ roads probably did more damage then it's entire life in Japan :)

To begin, mask off everything, and wash down the calipers with hot soapy water.

You'll need some Brembo stencils. Any shop that makes decals will be able to do this for you.

Paint Stripper

0kwikstrip.JPG

Brembo Stencils

1_1.JPG

After the first application of the stipper

1Firststrip.JPG

You may need to apply the stripper several times to clean off the factory paint.

2strip.JPG

3strip.JPG

4strip.JPG

5strip.JPG

After all the paint is off, sand back the calipers with 400 grit wet and dry

FRONT

6rtsprayf.JPG

REAR

7rtsprayf2.JPG

8rtspayr.JPG

You can either use hi temp paint or caliper paint. I've gone with a metallic charcoal. 2 coats should do the trick

FRONT

9paintedf.JPG

REAR

91paintingr.JPG

Important !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LET THE PAINT CURE FOR A FEW DAYS BEFORE YOU PROCEED

The stencil may damage the paint if you don't

Attach the mask

92mask.JPG

Peel back the top protection of the mask.

92mask2.JPG

Ready to spray the logo

FRONT

93logospayf.JPG

REAR

94logor.JPG

95logomaskedr.JPG

About 3 coats are nessary as the metallic charcoal is quite dark. Hi Temp White

96frontcoat1.JPG

97frontdone.JPG

You can apply a clear coat for a more glossy finish and extra protection.

FRONT

98frontdone1.JPG

REAR

99reardone1.JPG

It takes a few days for the paint to cure properly so, best to avoid driving for a few days if you can.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206478-caliper-painting-guide-brembo/
Share on other sites

That is really cool. Where did u get the BREMBO stencils from? That would be a ricers dream, fake brembos!! Can you get NISSAN ones as well?

Any shop that can make decals will be able to make this stencil. Most signwriters that use vinyal cut lettering etc. I got a local signwriter to make them for me.

Thanks

  • 1 month later...

brembo's have very tough coatings and undercoats - paint stripper is a must on them

if you can get a good shot of the brembo writing in a jpg form, convert to vector graphics format its easy to get any sticker/vinyl shop to make them

  • 1 year later...
how long does this take in total (hours labour) and where can you find these high temp paints and clear coats from??

thanks

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pa...ers-t97215.html

This thread has est. time and where to purchase paints etc. :/

how long does this take in total (hours labour) and where can you find these high temp paints and clear coats from??

thanks

took around 2 hours per wheel , including preptime.

The whole project took a few days because it's important to let the paint cure

I'm actually contemplating doing mine at the moment... Want to go yellow just for something different. Any particular paint brand you would recommend? All I have been told is look for the Engine type paint (obviously for heat purposes)...

  • 1 month later...
don't u need to take the caliper off? it's reli cool

1) I tried and i couldn't , too hard.

2) I had just bled the entire brak system and changed all fluids about a month ealier to this project and did not want to go through it all again :P

Looking very nice... But one question, If you went to all that effort why did you choose not to go with a different colour perhaps?

I think the dark suits the car. It's a white GTR, if i'd made it anything else like blue, red, or yellow you'll just look like a douche :)

It's personal preference I guess.

This project was more about restoring the Brembo's to the orginal state as oppossed to pimping it out.

I'm actually contemplating doing mine at the moment... Want to go yellow just for something different. Any particular paint brand you would recommend? All I have been told is look for the Engine type paint (obviously for heat purposes)...

If your car is yellow then the yellow might suit... personally I think anything apart from black or grey gives off a rice boy racer vibe and gets you the wrong kind of attention :ermm:

Get good quality spay paint. Doesn't have to be hi-temp nessesarily. If you just drive around the city and motorways the acutall calipers don't get that hot. Just amke sure to cure it properly before taking it out for a drive. otherwise all that hard work will be ruined

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...