Jump to content
SAU Community

Motorplex meet.


Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Gradenko

Called up Westshock this morning and reserved the last set of kca349 they had. Picked it up this afternoon and looks like word is getting around, cause someone else wanted a set after I'd reserved.  

Looks like I should ask the Westshock boys for some commision. BTW you may find some axle hop if your rear shocks are stock stiffness. Launch with plenty of revs to prevent the car looking like a mad rabbit (test what rpm works best before going down to the track, you might need a little more)

  • Replies 233
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by macka

Guys/Gals

1)You want to launch about 500RPM higher than FULL BOOST RPM. This is what ive been told and seems affective.

2)When wheels start to spin back revs off slightly then all the way to redline, Snap 2nd gear and hold on thru gears hehehe

Higher boost/power newbies to motorplex 2nd gear snap seems to launch you into whatever direction you are pointing ie if back wheels kick out u may need to straighten up or u will go offcourse :-)

I find the track is a fair bit grippier than black asphalt

IMPORTANT. Most slightly modded skylines will do a  +160kmhr terminal speed which is just over 3rd gear redline so make sure u take 3rd to the end  

:burnout: :burnout: :burnout:  

Does anyone agree with this

No not really. Backing off once you have started to spin means you have already given away your 60" and plenty of time on the ET. It's probably not a bad idea if you can't avoid wheel spin in the first place.

Test this idea. Try launching at a base rpm you are sure won't spin (like taking off quick at the lights). Each time you launch increase the rpm till you launch with a small amount of spin. Back off a little and use that, if your clutch can handle a little bit of slip (Stock ones can't) you can use this to get boost up.

Believe it or not putting some weight in the boost for those who spin without control (read all skylines) will help with traction. People have used sand bags in the past. Have fun:D

Originally posted by adam 32

so leave the subs in the boot??

and have rear suspension on softest setting yeh!?

Yeah why not leave them in. If they sit over the rear wheels they will help a little. taking them out will improve the terminal speed and the 'potential time'(only if you get the same traction).

Rear suspension should be setup for traction, don't know if softer is better for that in your case. Front suspension on the soft setting is a good idea tho'.

Nice going at the drags guys!

Good to see you all again... albiet a rarity anyway....

A pretty good turnout methinks...

I gota bout 60 pics from the event and I'll post them up when I get into work on broadband....

Attendance list: (who have I missed out?)

Rhino - R32

Adam32 - R32

AdamQ- R33

Gradenko - R33

TangoGTS4 - R32

MrSnrub - R33

Radium - R32

Macka - R33

Did I miss anyone ?

and WHO was that beautiful r32 gtr with the plates "ELIMN8" that was very nice!??

Boostzor - JZA70

InitialD - R33

Early on, all I could muster was a bunch 14.0 - 14.5 passes depending on the launch - bogged (low 14) or axel tramp (14.5). Tried a different launch technique for my last pass and got a 13.8 @ 103mph, which I'm fairly happy with. My best 60' of 2.378 came from that run, so still room for improvement.

I think Boostzor cranked a mid 14 and InitialD did a 14 flat. How about everyone else?

My best run was my first run .........14.027

About what I expected.....had hoped for 13.9 but oh well.

After my first run I had a few runs where I crunched gears :confused: and the rest were mainly crap due to wheelspin. My first run I had no wheelspin...then the track got slippery :P Got 13 runs though which is pretty good.

Adam you should be getting 12's!!

Kym I didnt even know you were there.

Grandeko - what mods have you got?

Ben

ps........ man that Porsche was fast.... 12.02.... stock as a rock.:(

Yeah, that yellow 911 turbo was very nice. Didn't it have an exhaust at least? 12.02 is insanley quick for a stock car.

My mods are in my sig.

BPU (Basic Performance Upgrades) - 3" turbo back exhaust and K&N pod

5 puck semi ceramic clutch with hd pressure plate - stock flywheel (just waiting for an excuse)

1st gen s-afc - tuned for advanced igniton timing, a touch of boost (10psi) and 98RON

Not engine related but important for drag, a rear subframe lock kit.

Was running 27psi in rear wheels, as opposed to the 36psi I normaly run.

Also splashed cold water over air filter and intercooler before every run, although it didn't seem to do a damn thing :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...