Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

because most R33's with RB25 engines are running near max voltage after 200rwkw.

at 220 that you want, they will be past their resolution.

and series 1 to series 2 AFM are slightly different. but still max out at the same level.

you are changing the afm. might as well start with the right one instead of having to change it again in the future.

because most R33's with RB25 engines are running near max voltage after 200rwkw.

at 220 that you want, they will be past their resolution.

and series 1 to series 2 AFM are slightly different. but still max out at the same level.

you are changing the afm. might as well start with the right one instead of having to change it again in the future.

my car is making ~250rwkw on the stock afm :(

  • 3 weeks later...
my car is making ~250rwkw on the stock afm :(

that's why I said most.

and did you tune it?

did you see it being tuned?

do you have a PFC hand controller where you can see the AFM voltage?

is it not hitting max (4.8 or whatever it is) way before redline?

You can tune the car still once it has passed max voltage..

but it's not as accurate.

which kinda defeats the purpose of having an AFM equipt car..

and it is kinda in the zone where you would want to place the most emphasis on getting the tune right.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
from wat i have read on here the R33 s2 pins , 2 of then are for grounding ! can anyone comfirm !

No thats not correct.

The S2 pink label R33 AFM has 3 terminals. With the AFM facing towards you and the flow arrow pointing ===> they are:

pin 1: 12v from eccs relay

pin 2: Ground

pin 3: Signal

The Green label R33 S1 AFM however uses 2 grounds. The first is an ECU ground, the second is a Chassis ground. This is the same scope and dimensions as a rb20det silvertop AFM, the terminal outputs are slightly different but both 80mm.

Here is something a found on the net ages ago that I dig up when I need it:

post-13028-1208908227_thumb.jpg

Edited by James_03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...