Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, im taking all this sh*t to the tip sunday if its not sold.

make any offer on anything as if its not sold, im chucking it.

- Sr20det timing chain kit, includes cams, chain, tensioners, guides, crank gears, $80

- Apexi Frontpipe, suit sr silvia, SOLD TO DARCEY ?? MAYBE LOL

- Apexi Catback, sit any silvia/180, SOLD TO DARCEY? MAYBE LOL

- Rb coilpacks, they say rb20, but must be for red top rb20 or vg30 or some other type as dont fit my clip/loom $offers

- Silvia bonnet, dent in it, $free

- apexi pod/ afm adaptor, $15

- Sr/r33 i think pod filter adaptor $10

- 15 inch tyre, good for skids, $free

-Apexi Front pipe and Apexi Catback (sold to darcey possibly? if not $250 which is Fn cheap-)

-sr20det timing kit sold to that bloke that pm'd me yeh? of not $80 and its whoevers

-also got a pair of stock r32 rims painted black with near new tyres, $100 for rims without tyres, or $160 with tyres

- and a HKS pod filter, needs new foam piece, $15

- and a central20 ecu with slot to replace chips, umm tuned for a td06, standard injectors, fmic, xorst, made 205rwkw, speed cut, boost cut. $offers over $150, suits rb, r32

0404 331 770

if i still have this stuff by sunday its goin to tip so make offers and buy it.

Edited by Josh_r32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209032-fs-rbslyline-stuff/
Share on other sites

Josh, what's this ECU you have? Would it be OK for a VLT turbo on a RB20 Silvertop with the mods you've mentioned?

I'm keen but won't have money until after Easter.

Cheers, Greg.

no idea mate, it ran fine on my car, besides i had to adjust the idle.

your welcome to try it and see what its like, only a 2 min job to put it in

was tuned for a fmic, exhaust, standard injectors, fuel pump and td-06. but i have a stock rb20 with exhaust and a fmic and i got wicked flames with it so i assume its running my stock motor rich?

i know stuff all about tunes so i couldnt tell you what it would be like lol sorry

Edited by Josh_r32
If your going to throw the ECU out Josh i'll take it off your hands again, will be handy to start my car :/

how about i give it back to you, and we call it square for that motor ha ha :(

was standard cams in it :D havnt pulled the head off yet though lol

how about i give it back to you, and we call it square for that motor ha ha ;)

was standard cams in it :( havnt pulled the head off yet though lol

All good dude i was only going to see if the car would start with it :/

I have some "larger" cams to suit your rebuild :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
    • I said Garrett style. Not Garrett genuine. And something in the G30 550 range is what you want. Not those pokey little old fashioned T28 sized things. The intake ports in the head are small. There is little benefit in fattening up the runners and leaving ths actual ports small. Just run what you've got. And on the subject of Nistune vs Haltech etc..... You know you can control the transmission with decent standalone ECUs these days, right? No need to keep any of that old Nissan bullshit. Don't get me wrong - I use Nistune on my Neo. But it is a DET, so the number of bodges and workarounds I had to do to make it work in a chassis without ABS, TCS, etc, is quite small compared to the herniated arsehole you will have trying to make it work on a motor that doesn't have some of the things that the turbo ECU wants to see. Just easier to bite the bullet and go aftermarket outright.      
    • Hmm. Only when the f**king thing is actually working. Still can't find the leak. And that's with dye being put in the last 3 times!
×
×
  • Create New...