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Fuel Pump

R338OY

By R338OY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've had issues with a new bosch 040 in my R33. It ran fine for a day but the pump fuse blew. I changed the fuse and the car started but when i tap the throttle there is a whirring noise coming from the boot (similar to priming) lasting a couple of seconds, and if i tap it a few times i hear the pump 'click' and the car shudders so i have to switch it off.

Does this sound like an issue with the pump/voltage regulator?

I was going to take it to Unigroup tomorrow and get it tested and reinstalled (it's already booked) but i doubt the car will make it out of my driveway.

Anyone know a mobile auto-electrician who knows Skylines? I'm near Parramatta.

Cheers

Edited by R338OY
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infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

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Posted (edited)

(Factory)Wire gauge is to small for your upgraded pump(it uses more power).

Needs a fresh run of thicker electrical wire, coupled with a relay to turn pump on/off.

Parts/wire shouldn't cost more than $40, labour will be more expensive, up to 2-3 hours for those not familiar with skylines.

Edited by infamous_t
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R338OY Veteran

R338OY

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You paid a punk to install it, its his issue man! lol

Need more info, and as you didn't install it, ppl be stabbing wildly.

Unigroup seems pretty good, Yavuz will sort you out man.

Get to organizing that tow man for tomorrow man :)

Yeah Yavuz has worked on the car before. Spoke to him today and he's doing me a favour to look at it! Worst case scenario i'll have to tow it :D

(Factory)Wire gauge is to small for your upgraded pump(it uses more power).

Needs a fresh run of thicker electrical wire, coupled with a relay to turn pump on/off.

Parts/wire shouldn't cost more than $40, labour will be more expensive, up to 2-3 hours for those not familiar with skylines.

That sounds pretty convincing to me. I thought it might be $2-300 labour to call someone out, plus other bits and pieces.

So is it better to call someone out or try get it to the workshop? I'm more confident in Unigroup because Yavuz knows Skylines very well.

Anyone have a contact?

Thanks for the advice.

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R338OY Veteran

R338OY

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Getting some proper copper to an after market pump in a Skyline is key, but i wouldn't thi... wait..

You have a R33, the battery's already 100cm away from the pump :ninja:

Make sure you let us knows what the issue was :)

Will do lol :happy:

If anyone has a contact let me know. It'll save calling some random electrician.

Edited by R338OY
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infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
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Getting some proper copper to an after market pump in a Skyline is key, but i wouldn't thi... wait..

You have a R33, the battery's already 100cm away from the pump :(

Id don't own a 33 to verify myself, but I would imagine the signal still comes from the ecu, which is still up the front of the car.

I forgot about this myself, but should make parts total cheaper (less cable).

Good luck mate :(

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evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

Omar,

What time will you be at Unigroup?

Im heading there friday around 11am.

Yavuz and the team look after my boat, he'll get it sorted.

I've got a Walbro in there, few months back I had some mods finished and my fueling system was playing up.

Turns out that it was the low/high voltage for the fuelling.

I dont know too much on it, but apparantly when the car is at idle, it used a low voltage sender and when it gets up and going, uses the higher voltage. Mine was having dramas with that dual voltage and now it just runs on the high.

I cant notice any difference but fixed the issues.

:domokun:

Cheers,

Chris

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R338OY Veteran

R338OY

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Well after frying 5 fuses to get to Unigroup (distance- 3 min drive) i finally had it looked at. Turns out the positive wire on the pump had been squashed between the pump bracket and tank. The reason it drove fine at first was because the wire wasn't grounding on the tank- until bumping around cut into the wire and lead to the shorting out.

All it needed was a zip tie to hold the wires in place and careful reinstallation. 30 mins labour and the car drives fine and revs out nicely :thumbsup:

Omar,

What time will you be at Unigroup?

Im heading there friday around 11am.

Yavuz and the team look after my boat, he'll get it sorted.

I've got a Walbro in there, few months back I had some mods finished and my fueling system was playing up.

Turns out that it was the low/high voltage for the fuelling.

I dont know too much on it, but apparantly when the car is at idle, it used a low voltage sender and when it gets up and going, uses the higher voltage. Mine was having dramas with that dual voltage and now it just runs on the high.

I cant notice any difference but fixed the issues.

:)

Cheers,

Chris

Hi Chris, i got there yesterday arvo, about 6pm. If i went today you'd be able to see how annoyingly minor the issue was! :P

Good to hear you sorted your voltage out- is the dual system going bonkers a common thing? Does the car just run sluggish with this problem? I'd like to know so i can recognise the signs.

Cheers mate

Edited by R338OY
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R338OY Veteran

R338OY

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Omar,

Mate unfort I couldnt tell hey!

When it was on the dyno for final tuning, thats when the problem occoured.

So yeah, sorry I cannot give you a better answer mate! ;)

No worries mate, but cheers for the info. If i ever get the same problem you'll be first to hear about it!

Doh - amateur hour

Going to let us know who did the work, so we can boo them :spank:

jk, don't do that.

Lol. Yeah guess that's the DIY risk- but i don't mind :cool:

The mate who installed it came along and Yavuz gave him a little booing for soldering the terminals. Hehe i thought he was about to clip him over the ear :D

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