Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 111
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by FAT32

Steve,

Just the normal stuff, GT-R Fuel Pump, NISMO Fuel Pressure Reg, Pod Filter, re-chipped ECU. I think I might have to try the new pipe between the AFM and the turbo as it could be a possible cause. Are you getting yours made for $100 ?

Yep, $100 in adeliade.

If its a garrett core, not a HKS one, it just isnt the same. Although garrett make HKS cores, ONLY HKS can sell them. they put in alot of r&d, and want to protect that, and therefore have an agreement with garrett not to sell to anyone else. So unfortunately, were not comparing apples and apples.

Probably still worth replacing that pipe though - couldnt hurt.

I've heard that the GT2540 aint a very good turbo, and that it has now been replaced with the GT-RS turbo? The GT2540 gave too little top end power in return for the increase in lag. So you would be better going the GT-RS, although this is a new turbo and probably cost a bucket load.

I have read that HKS turbos are more efficient at higher boost, whereas Garrett turbos are more efficient at lower boost (eg 1bar and less). I thought HKS and Garrett turbos were just about the same, the only difference being that the HKS have specific HKS compressor trims.

fat32, can you superimpose dyno results from your old t3/t4 and your 2530 turbo?

it'd be interesting to see how peaky your old turbo was compared to the 2530...? i suspect your 2530 is making alot more power down low so your "pin you to your seat" feeling will be less exaggerated?

i guess its all down to personal preference but the area under the curve is more important than the outright peak power figure imho.

Once again it's all to personal preference, but once you've been in a big turbo car...it's hard to go back to the smaller turbos :) Although I do admit that the smaller turbo cars actually feel "faster" on the street, because they are with their quicker response and you only drive upto 60km/hr most of the time.

I have read that HKS turbos are more efficient at higher boost, whereas Garrett turbos are more efficient at lower boost (eg 1bar and less). I thought HKS and Garrett turbos were just about the same, the only difference being that the HKS have specific HKS compressor trims

Covered pretty well in this thread ... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ight=HKS+turbos

Seems the main advantage of HKS is you get a little HKS stamp on the side and pay a lot more ;)

If you bought it from GCG, I'd put money on the fact that it isn't an HKS turbo.

To whoever asked, you'll be VERY hard pressed to find the compressor maps for the HKS turbo range... They are very closely guarded secrets.

As to how do we know that they're more efficient at higher boost levels? From personal experience, from the thousands of people in Japan who use these turbos, and most importantly, from what HKS dealers set boost at for their customers in Japan.

That's the main difference between Garrett and HKS turbos. Their compressor and exhaust wheel designs. Garrett are designed for lower boost power, and the HKS turbos have their efficiency range shifted to higher rpm to produce more power...

People say the HKS turbos spool up faster than the Garrett equivalent, but I have never seen a back to back test to prove that.

All I know is that the relatively big HKS GT3040 on my car spools just as fast than stock GTR turbos and makes a crapload more power.

I think it's almost a well known fact that HKS turbo are more efficient at high boost, and Garrett turbos more efficient at lower boost. But having said this, it would be good to have a direct comparison between an HKS and equivalent Garrett turbo. I agree, the HKS compressor maps are very hard to find - if possible. They seem very secretive about their work, and who wouldn't be ;) The letters "HKS" are just about as reknown as "GTR" :D

Merli, just discussing the point - there is no "hard" data to support the arguements that HKS turbos are a) more efficient and B) make more power than an equivalent sized ball bearing turbo. That's the only point i'm making, and asking around to see if there is any actual data supporting that case.

Don't take it as an attack on you comments, I've got a HKS turbo on my car too. Would just like something more tangible than old wive's tales.

I have never, ever heard anyone say anything bad about HKS turbos, except the 2540. I have never, ever heard anyone who has driven cars with garrett turbos, and a correctly sized HKS turbo say they prefer the garrett.

All the evidence, be it hearsay, points in one direction only. Choices are personal, but if everybody who has used the HKS turbos comments that nothing in the garrett range comes close, you would have to be a bit niave to expect different.

Names mean alot in Japan, but generally the name is only established through performance. I find the japanese like to let their results do the talking.

Merli, what turbine AR does your turbo have? and when does it start making boost and hit full boost (however much that is)?

Cheers

Steve

Originally posted by DoughBoy

Merli, just discussing the point - there is no "hard" data to support the arguements that HKS turbos are a) more efficient and B) make more power than an equivalent sized ball bearing turbo. That's the only point i'm making, and asking around to see if there is any actual data supporting that case.

Don't take it as an attack on you comments, I've got a HKS turbo on my car too. Would just like something more tangible than old wive's tales.

a) they're not more efficient, they have different compressor/exhaust wheels that SHIFT the efficiency band to higher boost levels.

B) you don't believe that an HKS GT2530 would make more power at 1.6 bar than a Garrett GT25 at 1.1 bar??? Or to illustrate the point further, a Garrett GT25 at 1.6 bar, where it would just be blowing hot air and making less power than at 1.2 bar?

That's interesting, I didn't find it that hard to believe. If you believe that the HKS turbos are optimised for higher boost, the fact that they produce more power makes perfect sense to me.

And I agree with the others, although there may not be any direct "GT30 on the car... dyno it, take it off, HKS GT3040 on the car... dyno it" comparisons, I think the fact those "old wives tales" have considerable weight behind them, especially when you hear the same from all japanese tuners who have been playing with these Garrett/HKS turbos ever since the conception of the RB range of engines.

Steve, I have a 0.87 turbine housing, and I hit 1.2 bar by 4000rpm... That's all I have run, but I would assume 1.8 bar by 4300-4400rpm... I know, this turbo is wasted with stock internals ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...