Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The screw aloows you to adjust hte spring tension. When you are running more bosot pressure you might find it starts to leak in higher rev's so you want to tighten the srping up, however if you are not running as much boost you want to loosen it off to ensure the BOV will be able to open. However they more adjustable nowdays for rice factor to get different sounds.

BOV"s are illegal for the reason being that they vent blow-by into the atmosphere... yes they can be noisey, yes they cause the car to run richer but its stated that they blow un-filtered air/oil into the atmosphere... stupid really, cos last time i checked the exhaust vented to atmo aswell?? But thats all good its only carbon monoxides and what have you, alot worse than the 'ocassional' mist of oil comin from a BOV.

P.s. Don't forget BOV's if they aren't a good design will cause crappy throttle response, and having a atmo BOV means you must re-spool that released amount of air. They have their pluses and minuses.

As YBSLO4 mentioned BOVs are illegal if they vent to atmo, because cranck case gasses must exit the car via the exhaust, Road Traffic Act 1962 (from memory) in SA. These traffic laws are now pretty much consistant australia wide. So they MUST plumb back to be legal - like the stock one.

As for adjusting BOV, tighter will mean it takes more (boost) pressure for the valve to lift. Yes it will make less noise, but the fluttering noise you hear is air reversing through the compressor, slowing the turbo down (increasing lag) and putting strain on the turbine - this isnt too good for obvious reasons.

I adjusted mine by winding it back until the fluttering sound was almost gone. Almost, because if you wind it back too far, you may have the car stall at idle as it doesnt seal properly. Something to have a play with until you are happy.

The only noise testing I know of that a car needs to be roadworthy has to do with the exhaust, this is done with the car at revs, and the EXHAUST is not to exceed 89dBs. This is conducted with the car at specific revs, not changing gear - so I am not sure how any copper gets away with defecting cars for excessive intake noise (how could it exceed 89dB?) or noisey BOV which wouldnt be measured if a car was being tested for compliance with noise regulations - only for atmo BOV or pod that doesnt comply with ADRs.

I have heard of people claiming to be defected for this, and I would love to know exactly what regutation/act it is that they would be in breach of?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...