Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've noticed a couple of funny things going on with my car recently. Could the gurus out there have a punt at answering my questions?

1) I noticed the my ign timing is at 10 degrees when the car is idling. I've noticed in many threads people usually have 15 degrees. Will 10 degrees do damage to my engine?

2) After my tune, my car runs funny. Firstly, it idles strangely, the revs go up and down themselves, and sometimes, my car nearly stalls when I turn it on, right before the revs shoot back up to 1000 rpm.

3) when driving off boost (ie 0 pounds or less by not putting your foot on the accelorator hard) my car feels as though it's bogging, and sometimes, it stutters VERY mildly.

THe computer I got is a power FC.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210440-issue-with-my-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

try cleaning your AAC first or even your air filter intake for the hunting issue. alot of people have had similar problems after tuning and have found just a simple clean would fix their problem. worth a try since it doesnt cost anything except time!

10 degrees at idle simply isn't enough timing.

It needs to be at 15 degrees. This is easy to adjust in the powerfc.

Will this damage my engine at 10 degrees? :domokun:

ALso, whats ACC?

thanks

I have no idea how to use the POWER FC, the manual is all japanese, I'm scared to fiddle with the detting incase I stuff it up.

AAC - auxiliary air control

i'm sure there was a topic on how to clean this just search it in the DIY forums

I tried to find a thread with no success.

Could someone tell me what the ACC looks like and how to clean it?

Photos would be even better.

Or maybe just send me the link to the thread if you know where it is?

Cheers

Are you checking your timing with a timing light or on the pfc? Set your base timing on your CAS at 15 degrees using a timing light then tune with your pfc after that. That way you have a known base to tune from.

I've never had to do anything with the ACC on any Rb.

Cheers

Are you checking your timing with a timing light or on the pfc? Set your base timing on your CAS at 15 degrees using a timing light then tune with your pfc after that. That way you have a known base to tune from.

I've never had to do anything with the ACC on any Rb.

Cheers

sounds like you are right on the money man

but what gets me is why do they only have a timming mark on the crank that goes to ten

thats if each mark is 2 degress! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...