Jump to content
SAU Community

Urgent Advice And Knowledge Needed!

WOG BOY

By WOG BOY,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

WOG BOY Community Regular

WOG BOY

Posted
Posted

Hi all, i seem to be a having a few issues in all aspects about my new exhaust system....

I have a 3" Split Dump/Front Pipe and 3" Hi Flow Cat with a 3" catback part and 5" cannon output...its annoying me in so many ways....but anyway,

issues aside.....will my stock cat back exhuast connect fine to the aftermarket xforce cat? and this should quieten my exhuast down shouldnt it...its gotta be a better combo than stock dump/front and cat.....?

or would i be better to put the whole stock exhaust system back on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210611-urgent-advice-and-knowledge-needed/
Share on other sites
_8OO5TED_ Mentor

_8OO5TED_

Posted
Posted

if you put any portion of your stock system back on, you do realise you will loose power.

ot will be ok to put the stock cat back back on, but it will reduce power and be restrictive.

whats wrong with the system on it? too loud? too ugly??

WOG BOY Community Regular

WOG BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
if you put any portion of your stock system back on, you do realise you will loose power.

ot will be ok to put the stock cat back back on, but it will reduce power and be restrictive.

whats wrong with the system on it? too loud? too ugly??

i highly doubt im gonna lose much power...i have got less power now with the aftermarket system on than i did b4.....go figure! its got everyone stumped.....

but anyway, its too loud for my liking.....and is causing huge fuel consumption issues...and other stuff like that....

Edited by WOG BOY
_8OO5TED_ Mentor

_8OO5TED_

Posted
Posted

if you lost power fitting a 3" turbo back exhaust system, then there is another issue there. no way should you loose power. you should gain power, and feel it too. it should be running a few extra pounds of boost too.

you might have a vaccum leak somewhere.

WOG BOY Community Regular

WOG BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ahh im jus gonna take it off and put the stock cat back on it...leave the split dump and front pipe as well as hi flow cat on it.....

jus gonna make the car more showy.....it probably makes no sense...but i got enought power to beat all the commodore heros round my town...im happy with that!

:)

NISZILA Grand Master

NISZILA

Posted
Posted

You definately have another issue. That exhuast should give you a noticable increase in power. Also, if its too loud, that seems strange, unless you like a really quiet car :( The turbo acts almost like a muffler in the exhaust system, so turbo cars with exhaust are fairly quiet compared to NA cars.

SKYPER Enthusiast

SKYPER

Posted
Posted (edited)

Increase in boost level from aftermarket exhaust should lean out the A/F (Air / Fuel) ratio,

which makes the engine produce more power.

I wonder if the stock ECU has switched to the low octane maps that has the retarded

igniton map and richer fuel map. I guess a richer A/F ratio would explain the power drop.

What octane fuel do you use????

It should be at least BP 98 octane.

Have you reset the stock ECU by disconnecting and then reconnecting

the battery????

Edited by SKYPER
WOG BOY Community Regular

WOG BOY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i have been using either CALTEX VORTEX 98 or SHELL V-POWER....

no i hadnt done an ecu reset.....should i do that?

is it only jus disconnect the battery then join it back up...or do i have to leave it off for a while?

also the cat that i bought was a 'XFORCE HI FLOW CAT' and i was speaking to the exhaust shop just before and he said that it was a 400square per inch or something....where as his hi flow cats were only 200 square per inch.....so his would be less restrictive.....

what should the measurement be of the high flow cat......? (if any of that last bit made sense....)

SKYPER Enthusiast

SKYPER

Posted
Posted (edited)

Try it and see if there is a difference. It should temporarily clear fault codes, reset ECU to main ignition, fuel maps.

If there is a failed sensor or something else is wrong, it probably will revert back to what ECU was set to before

resetting ECU.

I think you remove the negative first and cover up the negative terminal with a cap. This is to make sure you dont

touch the positive terminal + negative terminal or positive terminal + chassis which is connected to negative terminal.

This could happen when you have a spanner in your hand and get a nasty surprise. Then remove the positive cable.

Reverse this order when reconnecting battery with positive first and negative last

Don't know much about cats, but I would think that a bigger volume cat would flow better.

Edited by SKYPER
(B1) MR_fanny Grand Master

(B1) MR_fanny

Posted
Posted

alot of people have been telling you that you obviously have an issue that isnt related to your exhaust thats making you loose power and from what you have been saying you have had this issue long before you got the exhaust.

if i were you i'd just take it to a workshop to diagnose it. they will hopefully fix the problem and then you will be glad you had left the aftermarket exhaust on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...