Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

I have a 1990 R32 GTS4 (RB20DET) and it is really causing me some serious headaches at the moment. The problem i'm having is I will be driving down the road and the engine will just cut power, like you flick a switch, but the car will still run under 2500rpm, usually when I loose power when i pull over on the side of the road the computer will be trying to idle the car from anywhere between 1000rpm-2500rpm revving up and down. The weird thing is it might be fine one afternoon but the next it doesn't want to play at all?? (I have noticed the frequency of it stuffing up cutting power is also increasing) I obviously checked and cleaned the AFM which appears to be fine, and the connections i also believe to be fine. I was thinking it could be the crank angle sensor or perhaps a shot vaccume line somewhere? If anyone has had something like this happen, or has any idea what it could be any help would be VERY MUCH APPRECIATED as I need the car this week (now infact) for work but it's too unreliable to take at the moment so i'm screwed really. Thankyou thankyou thankyou in advance!!!

Cheers,

Rhys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210765-help-please-r32gts4-problem/
Share on other sites

hey mate

the giveaway is that the car still runs under 2500rpm, this is a clue that the ECU has lost the signal from the AFM and thus isn't sure how much air is getting into the engine. as a result it runs very rick. this can cause the car to either stall or run very rough

your answer is probably your AFM is stuffed. its a common problem

a cheap and easy fix is to re-solder it yourself if you can work a knife and a soldering iron

do a search of +solder +AFM and you will bring up the thread of how to fix it

gooc luck!

Warren

Hey Warren,

At the start i thought for sure it was my AFM. BUT when the car is running, it seems to be running fine with the current AFM - so if the AFM was truely buggered it should always be not wanting to go over 2500rpm? I switched out my crank angle sensor with one of my mates from his R32 and it seemed to fix the problem for the short amount of time we had to go for a drive. I also believe the crank angle sensor was not put back on the car at the right setting when I had some work done and this could have been the problem all along now that we have come into hotter weather. It is my understanding that the AFM, crank angle sensor and throttle position sensor all work together (obviously) but if one is buggered it can throw up the symptoms of AFM when it's really not as the ECU goes into safe mode. I have already cleaned the AFM and checked the connections. I am getting a new crank angle sensor today for cheap so i'l see if that rectifies the problem. I really wish Nissan had spent a bit more bloody time on their AFM's and crank angle sensors I have already replaced BOTH when I got the car from Japan 2 years ago...fun fun

AFM being buggered can do one of 2 thing

1) go into limp-home mode

2) randomly cut the engine completely

when mine went it cut the engine randomly. if i let the car sit for a while it would start and drive fine. no warning, no particular setting, would just do it.

hope you find our problem regardlessof what it is but keep an open mind - cars are annoying barstards and if you zero into one fix you can miss others.

cheers,

Warren

Yeah cheers for that Warren,

I have been driving around for the past couple of days with the crank angle re-set to the correct timing. I have still noticed occasionally the engine trying to cut power (I will usually down shift to try give it a kick in the arse) which would still point to the fact that my AFM could still very well be the culprit. It looks like i'm switching the AFM with my mates this weekend and going for a decent drive. Last time this happened it was the AFM and the crank angle buggered at the same time...fun fun

Hopefully i'l get it all fixed for a couple of hundred $$ through some mates rates. I just hope I get more than a year and a half out of this lot!!

Have a top long weekend buddy.

Rhys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...