Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all...plz help me out with my retarded boost leak that i cannot find... how to u go about finding one of these suckers.. i know its small...cause it only start whistling at about 5 pound... its on the drivers side so i dont think it oculd be anything else.... how to u find these things!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211461-boost-leak/
Share on other sites

does anyone sell boost leak testers for skyline intake piping? I bought one for my zed, basically you remove your afm and the boost leak tester fits into the piping, it's got a tyre valve and a pressure guage on it. then you hook it upto a compressor and pump air into the intake and listen for leaks. when the pressure guage actually stays steady then you know there's no leaks. you'll be suprised at how many leaks you can find, when i first did the test the pressure guage didn't move, had to tighten just about every clamp in the intake and now it holds 5psi and no leaks.

mine cost $50, easily payed for itself in saved petrol $$

heres a pic:

BLT%20pic%20big%20in%20my%20hand.jpg

it's made by these guys: http://boostpro.net/prodtester.html and is distributed by Caz at www.cazracing.com.au

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211461-boost-leak/#findComment-3738582
Share on other sites

1. take your pod and AFM off.

2. use a baked bean can (full) and put it into your rubber intake pipe (assuming its still the stock one).

3. tighten up the hose clamp onto the tin creating a seal.

4. Open the throttle body with a brick on the accelerator pedal, so you can read pressure on the boost gauge.

5. take a hose that is plumbed into your intake between the turbo and the plenum or off the plenum itself.

6. Get an air compressor and pressurize the system through the hose and get someone to read the psi on the boost gauge. you only need about 5psi. you can use the compressors at the servos.

7. Listen for a leak. And use the soapy water in the spray bottle to find exactly where it is if need be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211461-boost-leak/#findComment-3756437
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...