Jump to content
SAU Community

Coolant leak somewhere between transmission and engine + power steering boot leak?


Recommended Posts

Crawled underneath my car to see where the drops of liquid is coming from. I have 2 issues.

1. There is a coolant leak somewhere between the engine and the transmission. I have no idea where this is coming from. It seems very slow. Is it possible that the coolant is leaking between the transmission and the engine?? (idk if that's a dumb question). Its only on the drivers side. the passenger side is clean. Last year i did a complete coolant hose overhaul and replaced everything with silicon tubes. 

image.thumb.png.18bfaadf06cdc059235ce655f2848f04.png   image.thumb.png.b760225b413caaf6a390a5ef8bc3b421.png 

2. I noticed that the boot on my power steering rods are torn. Is the grease underneath the car just from the boot being torn? or is the power steering leaking itself? Is it supposed to be greased and lubed up inside the boot?

image.thumb.jpeg.c89bfb5c8a358e54c25e0bd1ea61ccca.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.6412f8c8db87d3afb32a891a0ce2292d.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

Is it possible that the coolant is leaking between the transmission and the engine??

Yes it is possible. There is a welch plug on the back of the block (behind the flywheel).

1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

Last year i did a complete coolant hose overhaul and replaced everything with silicon tubes. 

That's the other possibility. If the hoses were original, then you could easily figure that one is about to pop. Because you have definitely been in there and changed them, it is eminently possibly that the leak is from one of the heater hose connections at the rear under the inlet manifold

 

1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

I noticed that the boot on my power steering rods are torn. Is the grease underneath the car just from the boot being torn? or is the power steering leaking itself? Is it supposed to be greased and lubed up inside the boot?

The grease under your car could be because we're talking about a 35 year old car here.....

PS fluid should not escape from a torn boot, but PS fluid might be escaping from the torn boot. We're talking about a 35 yo car here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good points GTS.

Is it possible to replace the welch plug on the back of the engine while it's in the car?

So let me understand. In normal conditions, inside of the boot, the rod should be clean and have no grease or PS fluid on it? 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As well as the heater hoses, unfortunately there are multiple small coolant hoses under the plenum at the rear of the engine, real pain to change engine in, if one was leaking they would drip onto starter then down into that area.

Welch plugs are the series of brass or steel plates that block off holes that were needed to machine the block. Per this pic from elsewhere on the site there are 3 at the rear of the motor, in this case the one in the bell housing is missing. Also the top one is unusual because it goes to the head oil space not coolant galleries, that is where a rear drain/breather is often placed.

D9F1105A-CC15-4059-82D3-BD515EED678E.jpe

It is much less likely to be leaking from a welch plug unless your motor has been rebuilt at some stage.

Re the power steering rack, you just need to get the boots replaced before too much shit gets in there. The boots protect the inner rack end ball joint, not sure how much grease they are meant to have but it can't be nothing as they move. Genuine is better than aftermarket for boots because a lot of the aftermarket stuff uses much harder rubber that doesn't last.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Duncan said:

As well as the heater hoses, unfortunately there are multiple small coolant hoses under the plenum at the rear of the engine, real pain to change engine in, if one was leaking they would drip onto starter then down into that area.

Welch plugs are the series of brass or steel plates that block off holes that were needed to machine the block. Per this pic from elsewhere on the site there are 3 at the rear of the motor, in this case the one in the bell housing is missing. Also the top one is unusual because it goes to the head oil space not coolant galleries, that is where a rear drain/breather is often placed.

D9F1105A-CC15-4059-82D3-BD515EED678E.jpe

It is much less likely to be leaking from a welch plug unless your motor has been rebuilt at some stage.

Re the power steering rack, you just need to get the boots replaced before too much shit gets in there. The boots protect the inner rack end ball joint, not sure how much grease they are meant to have but it can't be nothing as they move. Genuine is better than aftermarket for boots because a lot of the aftermarket stuff uses much harder rubber that doesn't last.

Duncan, thank you for this. The previous owner did say that he paid a shop to rebuild the engine with forged components. I have no way of verifying this, but I know that the shop wasn't detail oriented as there are mix n matched screws everywhere. And they did not replace the coolant water hoses or metal line under the plenum that was rusted. Last year, i replaced all the coolant hoses. 

As for the welch plugs. . in my drawing, is this where the transmission connects to it? image.thumb.png.79b3fbf8f4571e2b707d1c438661e444.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah pretty much, although the plate is rounder and picks up the right block webbing too. If you look closely you can see a missing welsh plug in this pic; if that is the issue in yours it is gearbox out, clutch/flywheel off to replace the leaking one, but that is much less likely than a water hose

BTW changing the external head welch plugs from inside the car is easy if you have no dash in your race car, just need to holesaw the firewall in the right place and it is easily accessible. May not be so practical in a road car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, kevboost7 said:

Duncan, thank you for this. The previous owner did say that he paid a shop to rebuild the engine with forged components. I have no way of verifying this, but I know that the shop wasn't detail oriented as there are mix n matched screws everywhere. And they did not replace the coolant water hoses or metal line under the plenum that was rusted. Last year, i replaced all the coolant hoses. 

As for the welch plugs. . in my drawing, is this where the transmission connects to it? image.thumb.png.79b3fbf8f4571e2b707d1c438661e444.png

Confirmation of non OEM pistons and rods could easily be done by popping a sparkplug out to verify piston top and oil pan to confirm rods. You could also probably just fiddle with a borescope through your oil drain actually without even removing the pan. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:

Confirmation of non OEM pistons and rods could easily be done by popping a sparkplug out to verify piston top and oil pan to confirm rods. You could also probably just fiddle with a borescope through your oil drain actually without even removing the pan. 

what would i be looking for? shiny new looking pistons? do pistons have markings on them to indicate a brand or something?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, kevboost7 said:

Also, while i'm replacing the inner tie rod boot, anything else i should replace? the place i buy parts, charge shipping so i'm trying to bulk buy everything to avoid paying shipping twice lol

either nothing, or if you want to be proactive both inner and outer tie rod ends both sides as they are wear items and it may be a long time since last replacement (if ever). If you replace the tie rod ends you will need a wheel alignment.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

i looked everywhere.. under the plenum is dry. Its only around the transmission area. I'm so puzzled. I tried to get a endoscope to look at it, but its too dark to tell. At this point, i don't think i can see where the leak is coming from unless i remove the engine.. is it possible to get to the back of the motor without removing it? I'm assuming its the half moon things, but i've never seen them with my own eyes. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The half moons don't have coolant behind them. They back onto the camshaft tunnels and have oil behind them.

The previously mentioned welch plugs on the back of the engine could be it.

It's a gearbox out job at the minimum, just to find out if you need to do them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, kevboost7 said:

i looked everywhere.. under the plenum is dry. Its only around the transmission area. I'm so puzzled. I tried to get a endoscope to look at it, but its too dark to tell. At this point, i don't think i can see where the leak is coming from unless i remove the engine.. is it possible to get to the back of the motor without removing it? I'm assuming its the half moon things, but i've never seen them with my own eyes. 

Did you actually inspect everything under the plenum? The area at the back of the engine is a mess of coolant pipes. There's a Y-pipe for coolant return next to the wastegate vacuum pipes which can pinhole leaks from corrosion or mechanical stress cracks the weld/brazing for the joint. Also the rear block fitting for coolant could also leak. It also has a Y-pipe as well. As others have said it is also possible that the core plugs have corrosion so they're leaking coolant as a result. You can try to fix it with RTV but getting access especially for the back of the engine will probably require engine removal.

Edit: Pic to show what I'm talking about:

IMG_3711.thumb.jpeg.82d0c6e25b6a58504cba09fb10c53f03.jpeg

Edited by joshuaho96
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/16/2023 at 5:07 PM, joshuaho96 said:

Did you actually inspect everything under the plenum? The area at the back of the engine is a mess of coolant pipes. There's a Y-pipe for coolant return next to the wastegate vacuum pipes which can pinhole leaks from corrosion or mechanical stress cracks the weld/brazing for the joint. Also the rear block fitting for coolant could also leak. It also has a Y-pipe as well. As others have said it is also possible that the core plugs have corrosion so they're leaking coolant as a result. You can try to fix it with RTV but getting access especially for the back of the engine will probably require engine removal.

Edit: Pic to show what I'm talking about:

IMG_3711.thumb.jpeg.82d0c6e25b6a58504cba09fb10c53f03.jpeg

Yes, last year i had all the hoses replaced with new silicone ones. And i even replaced that silver hard vacuum/coolane pipe that all the hoses connect. That hard pipe was corroded. Everything under the plenum is 100% dry. 

This is a silly question, but the transmission dosent get any coolant does it? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, kevboost7 said:

Yes, last year i had all the hoses replaced with new silicone ones. And i even replaced that silver hard vacuum/coolane pipe that all the hoses connect. That hard pipe was corroded. Everything under the plenum is 100% dry. 

This is a silly question, but the transmission dosent get any coolant does it? 

No, not the manual transmissions. I have to check for the automatics but most likely instead of sending coolant under the car to the transmission oil heat exchanger they would send transmission oil lines going forward into the radiator instead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...