Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just had a scuff in my s2 33 with a frkn excel cutting the big round about before bunbury.

No headlight damage but left hand fender is pushed in,a little crumpled and the front bar

pushed in a bit under the fender,basically her rear hit 10cm behind light.

There also seems to be a tiny crack on the metal inside under the bonnet.

Should i pay $120-50 for a fender (if i can find a white one) and fit it myself,or get it beaten out and sprayed?

also will i need the inside beaten and resprayed to stop rusting?

How much would all this cost roughly?

I have a bodykit coming on tuesday so front bar is no worries.

Will get pics soon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211573-panelbeating/
Share on other sites

Its pretty vague whos fault it actually was,and i was just asking what i should do so i can get some quotes and figure out if its worth bothering her about,shes only had her license 3 weeks and has 3rd party..

im just too much of a nice guy :cool:

lol! if she only got 3rd party that is good news for you as they will fix your car.

if it was her fault and you are going to use insurance then best way is to contact your insurance explain you were in an accident it was the other person fault and they will tell you what to do.

or else just go to different spraypainters/panelbeaters and ask for a quote then give the girl and call and see what you can work out.

depending on the damage to the fender it might just be easier/cheaper to buy a second hand one and get it respray *but it also depends on the condition of the 2nd hand fender*

bonnet best to get it sorted because as you mention if the paint has been crack off and its bare metal it will start to rust. but if its just a crack and on the underside might be easier to bog it up and just spray it black as you wont see it

price its hard to say without pics but maybe anywhere from $250 to $600 ish (ruff est)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211573-panelbeating/#findComment-3740687
Share on other sites

touchup the bonnet yourself and get vented front gaurds

anytime something breaks or gets broke upgrade to sumit better

for the other driver issue get two qoutes take to them and ask to pay half totally reasonable and you dont feel like a dick when you spend that money on mods

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211573-panelbeating/#findComment-3742050
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...