Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

specials next three weeks only oil and filter service with castrol sunthetic oil 75$

timing belts,r33 r32 550$ inc gates high performance belt ,fresh coolant,seals,1 bearing.

cheers

ph#0424416418

I do not recommend anybody use this guy. Unless you hate your own car.

I'm a big believer in praising somebody when they do an excellent job and telling the world about it afterwards, but unfortunately Johnny doesn't fall into this category.

I had a lengthy list of things I wanted done with my car but decided to test him by getting him to do a few basic things first. John fitted front and rear swaybars to my R32 GTR quite a few months ago. After his first attempt the bars were knocking, and the car had to be taken back to have them adjusted. After his second attempt, while attempting to test drive my car, John claimed the car 'just wouldn't start'. The car was taken to Hills Motorsports (a FANTASTIC bunch of guys, and very knowledgeable about modified cars) who verified that the engine was badly damaged, and would need to be rebuilt. There was very little I could do to pursue the matter, so I paid for my $11,000 engine rebuild and took it like a (much poorer) man.

However, once the rebuild was completed, the car could be driven again and I was still getting irregular, hard knocks from underneath the car. So I get it put up on a hoist to see if the problem can be located. It didn't take long, and was quite astonishing to see.

I have included photos for those of you who enjoy a good laugh. When fitted, the swaybar bushes had been overtighted to the point that they looked like flattened tennis balls. They were totally distorted and torn in some places because of this. Also, a number of the components required to correctly mount the bars had not been used (washers, etc...)

Swaybar.jpg

Swaybar1.jpg

Swaybar2.jpg

Swaybar3.jpg

This was extremely concerning, poor quality work, and reminded me for some reason of 'A Current Affair'. If something as simple as fitting a swaybar was botched by John, imagine how much more complicated tasks may have been completed?

Repairs to this joke cost me an additional $143 ($110 hours labour and $33 for new bushes) as I was not willing to return the car to Johnny after seeing what poor work had been done. I did contact him regarding compensation of the $143, but he was neither interested in seeing the photos provided, the deformed bushes, nor assisting with the repairs payment. He was nice enough to call me a 'f*cking p*ssy' though.

I'd like to remind everybody that Johnny technically falls into the category of being a 'backyarder' and, as such, probably doesn't have insurance for any of the vehicles he works on. If something were to happen to your car during repairs (including test drives) you'll be paying the bill yourself - just like I did.

One other thing. John did claim to have worked at a number of the more 'well known' tuning shops in Sydney. As additional precaution, anybody considering using him may want to do a background check on his work by ringing some of these shops and asking what he was like and why he's no longer employed with them. If he's got nothing to hide, then he shouldn't have a problem with this.

I'd hate for anybody else to get burnt like I did.

In short, I recommend you stay away. You get what you pay for. He tries hard, but doesn't seem experienced enough to be doing his own work without supervision.

lol.

as previously stated to cameron aka.coackman, i did say that the car needed to come back to me after the engine got rebuilt.(mind you this is a car that had not had the timing belt replaced for an unknown amount of years, hence the fact that the tensioner bearing shredded and skipped a few teeth on the belt causing the engine to smack valves on pistons, as soon as the car was started on my driveway WITHOUT me ever driving it.)

i was more than happy to rectify and if need be replace the bushes at my expense, as i stated to cameron aka.COCKMAN but without letting me know at that time,two months later decided to ring me for a bill that he had not seen coming,and i had no idea about.

now, im sure everyone elses cars that i have worked on, has been a happy and pleasing adventure from both parties,i was expecting this to happen one day as everyone can see now A:why you should keep an eye on your service and maintenence scheduals and B: DONT BUY A SHITTER.

cheers.

lol.

as previously stated to cameron aka.coackman, i did say that the car needed to come back to me after the engine got rebuilt.(mind you this is a car that had not had the timing belt replaced for an unknown amount of years, hence the fact that the tensioner bearing shredded and skipped a few teeth on the belt causing the engine to smack valves on pistons, as soon as the car was started on my driveway WITHOUT me ever driving it.)

i was more than happy to rectify and if need be replace the bushes at my expense, as i stated to cameron aka.COCKMAN but without letting me know at that time,two months later decided to ring me for a bill that he had not seen coming,and i had no idea about.

now, im sure everyone elses cars that i have worked on, has been a happy and pleasing adventure from both parties,i was expecting this to happen one day as everyone can see now A:why you should keep an eye on your service and maintenence scheduals and B: DONT BUY A SHITTER.

cheers.

...and use professional, experienced mechanics who know what they're doing.

I have absolutely no interest in calling you names, and your reply still doesn't explain how something as simple as fitting swaybar bushes was done so badly.

Wow, nice work by Johnny there, any other customer 'testimonials'???

As for Hills Motorsports, I have my own issues with them, they supply parts to a repairer I am using and they are SLOW AS F*CK, and Mark tells me "It will be there Monday morning", then Thursday a week after, it is finally being packed in the car and taken over. I hate arseholes lying straight to me, if it's not going to happen, tell me and I wont have a problem, but if you say it's going to happen, make it happen.

Anyway, best of luck with the GTR, and I would be more than interested in other genuine testimonials for this 'cheap mechanical work' as well.

B.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...