Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone!

im looking into lowering my R34 and i am tossing up between which king springs to get, the "lows" or the "super lows", i did read a few months back about something if you lower an r34 more than xxx cms the tire wear would greatly increase and the handling would be like a bag of potatoes, i have used the search function and couldnt find anything, so yeah anyone know the rough LIMIT that a R34 can be lowered without sacrificing too much handling/tyre wear???

thanx heaps in advance

:thumbsup:

what about coilovers?

Yeah ive thought about coilovers but im kinda restricted budget wise :thumbsup:

but just out of interest would i need to get anything else with coilovers if i did buy them???

im still open for options....itll jus take longer :woot: lol, but simply put im lookn at doin a suspension overhaul as its pretty nasty round corners and bumpy ride, even though ive got the stock rims on it...

lows dont lower it much i have super lows......stock shocks........ i did change the rubber boots and bumps stops to softer ones......it actually rides good doesnt break ur back when u hit bumps as springs are soft........saying that not the best for hard cornering handling and camber wear......but if ur on a budget like i was its good for the low look! last 6 months had no issues.

Edited by rgr34
lows dont lower it much i have super lows......stock shocks........ i did change the rubber boots and bumps stops to softer ones......it actually rides good doesnt break ur back when u hit bumps as springs are soft........saying that not the best for hard cornering handling and camber wear......but if ur on a budget like i was its good for the low look! last 6 months had no issues.

can we get a pic of your car to see what height it sits at with super lows?

lows dont lower it much i have super lows......stock shocks........ i did change the rubber boots and bumps stops to softer ones......it actually rides good doesnt break ur back when u hit bumps as springs are soft........saying that not the best for hard cornering handling and camber wear......but if ur on a budget like i was its good for the low look! last 6 months had no issues.

Cool, yeah i think im gonna go with super lows for now and later get coilovers when i got more money :) , wats it like to live with tho like speed bumps etc, it wont effect my decision much but just wanna know b4 i go get them.....oh and how much did u pay for your super low king springs alone???

yeh as i said the springs rates are not hard so bumps arent a problem.... clears speed bumps too........on bad bumps it will bottom out occassionally but the bumps stops are softer kind of cushion it... i got my done at a workshop paid $470 thats 4 king springs, new boot and bump stops and alignment.......the kings springs to source yourself range from $180 to $200 from what i can remember.....workshop get it cheaper obviously.

Edited by rgr34

Hey all im getting super lows also but what i wanted to know is, Is there anyone that has done this or that will know if there will be enough clearance between guard and tyres?? - My tyres at the rear are 265 on 9.5" wide rims.

I got a price for everything including rolling the guards for $550. Can anyone tell me if cops would stick their fingers in the gaps and give me a yellow? Anyone who was at our cruise friday will know that having coilovers and very handy lol. But right now money points to springs.

Edited by MellowYellow
Can anyone tell me if cops would stick their fingers in the gaps and give me a yellow?

if that was a legal way of measuring, all of those cars where it has body panels that go halfway down the rear wheel would be screwed....just say that if thats how the cop tries to measure your ride height....

if that was a legal way of measuring, all of those cars where it has body panels that go halfway down the rear wheel would be screwed....just say that if thats how the cop tries to measure your ride height....

I watched a cop do it to a large group of us, i think he was checking to see that there was enough gap between tyre and guard not how Low exactly.

im getting super lows just for the rear this week

i shall return with before and after pics if anyone's interested...

yeah im def interested in b4 and after pics

was gonna get mine done this week bt pretty damn bizzy :D

can't wait now :D

You guys must be really young to want to lower your cars that much. Have you checked out any rally cars lately ? they can corner better than most because they don't bottom out around a corner and spit you across the road into an oncoming car. THATS why the police get upset with excessive lowering, especially in the rain. Standard lows or Sydney Kids group buy !! So tell me, how many porches or Ferrari's have adjustable race type coil and shocks ? Only the latest designs have. Why ? Because you can't beat a properly setup shock and coil. Bilsteins & the right valving with coils to match. OK off my soap box.

If you use super lows on stock damper then your asking for more money to be spent in the near future to replace the shock and you will be sacrificing handling.

and also you will need offset camber bushes to correct the front and rear camber if you go that low...

why do it? for looks?

Do it properly use quality dampers with matched springs. Yep it will cost more, but thats what it costs to do it right and have decent handling, skylines are tail happy as it is without ruining the suspension any more...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...