Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I know issues with HICAS have been posted 65 million times before, but i have a problem that i cant find the

answer to after searching many threads.

My car has had the HICAS removed by the previous owner. The problem is I have a power steering leak that is difficult to find, the rear of

the pump has been closed with a banjo bolt with no hose coming from this. I think this may be the problem, but my mechanic put a new stonger

washer on the bolt which slowed the leak down. The leak seems to be from this area, its hard to tell as when the car is hot it makes a mess all this side of the car.

What im asking basically, will having the rear of the pump closed off be causing it to leak under pressure under hot oil temps?

How could this be fixed?

Sorry if this seems a little brief, but its difficult to explain.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212152-32gtst-leaking-powersteering-oil/
Share on other sites

Hot oil will become thinner and will be more likely to leak out if the leak is small enough. This is what id be doing. Clean down the entire area with degreaser and make sure you can see the area well, IE: get a light if you need to. Start up the engine and get someone to load up the steering IE: full lock and watch for leaks. That will help you identify where the leak is and then you can either replug the banjo fitting properly or get the pump rebuilt as it may just be a leaking pump seal.

Good luck :D

Edited by Godzilla32

we have plugged the rear of the pump with a bolt and copper washer - no leaks. may not even be coming from there....spray the whole area with degreaser then check what is wet after a quick drive

we have plugged the rear of the pump with a bolt and copper washer - no leaks. may not even be coming from there....spray the whole area with degreaser then check what is wet after a quick drive

Hey Duncan,

Did you work on the car for the previous owner?

sorry buggor34 i meant the royal "we", I have blocked the rear stage of mine without any leaks

michael - yes you will kill the pump if you just block up the rear stage, I killed my first one this way. You need to pull the back off the pump and remove the blades on the impellor

michael - yes you will kill the pump if you just block up the rear stage, I killed my first one this way. You need to pull the back off the pump and remove the blades on the impellor

can you run a line there and use that to hook upto a cooler and run the line back from the cooler to the front stage?/line by using a T piece? As i dont have any of the pumps?/solanoids for the HICAS on the left of the engine bay there anymore.

indeed you can, or return it straight to the resoviour to cool it before it heads out thru the first stage.

if I did it again I would do it this way, but instead mine is one stage only - resoviour - pump - cooler - steering rack - resoviour. Still boils over during track work even with good fluid. cooler is pretty small though only about 10cm high

its worse than that mate, I'm talking about a proper aftermarket core not the super crappy standard finned pipe thingy. Fluid boils every session for me (say 8-10 laps or 15 min), but until this year we were not allowed to run a bigger cooler.

sorry buggor34 i meant the royal "we", I have blocked the rear stage of mine without any leaks

michael - yes you will kill the pump if you just block up the rear stage, I killed my first one this way. You need to pull the back off the pump and remove the blades on the impellor

Funny you should say that Duncan, because thats what has been done to my pump (bolt with copper washer). The mechanic found the leak

& it was from the front seal on the pump :worship:

Do you think it would be better to take the impellors off the back of the pump or route a pipe somewhere? If so where would be the best place to run

the new piping?

Thanks heaps!

Buggor - this is all Skyline 101 :D Many a detailed thread.

People remove the rear stator, but most people just re-route the lines. Check the pictures people have posted, compare that with what you see when you get under the car and its dead easy. Cut some steal pipe, fit 30cm worth of hose, few hose clamps - wo la!

Buggor - this is all Skyline 101 :D Many a detailed thread.

People remove the rear stator, but most people just re-route the lines. Check the pictures people have posted, compare that with what you see when you get under the car and its dead easy. Cut some steal pipe, fit 30cm worth of hose, few hose clamps - wo la!

The trouble is that the previous owner has removed all the lines that were associated with the rear of the pump. & just blocked the hole with a bolt & copper washer. Which i believe has caused the pump to blow the front seal.

I have searched through many threads and am confused as to what option is better. Do you have any links to any good

threads?

In your opinion would you while repairing the pump take out the impellor or add some fittings and hoses to the rear of the pump and use an aftermarket cooler etc? I do plan to take it to a few track days in the future.

Cheers!

well putting everything back is all too hard, so stick with what you have. if the rear stage is blocked off and its done more than a couple of hundred ks, they must have taken the blades out of the rear stage....otherwise it would be dead by now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...