Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, i was just wondering if i should change the timing belt at the same time as the water pump, which i will be needing in the next few weeks, as it has to be removed anyway.

The thing is, the timing belt is only 50,000km old.... but i feel like i might as well, BUT i am very poor right now so even the extra $90 or watever for the best would be a stretch.

Help me make up my mind?

i would too ,if i bought a car that had 40 k on it and it was like 6 -7 years old ( u never know how many its done do u ? belts deteriorate with age as well as use but if i had a car and i knew the belt was changed say 2 - 3 years ago and only done 50k i wouldnt bother cause it would be like new

thanx for your replies, my car has more than 50k on the odo, but according to the service history, it was changed about 50k ago, just to clear up the confusion.

Im still not sure.... it would have been done about 3 years ago i think. ill tell my mech to change it if it looks aged i geuss...

u can't tell by looking at it cause it will still look like new if its only 3 years old , even when its done 100 k and more than 5 years old it still looks new .

since u dont know if it was changed for sure pay the extra $90 and have it changed

Also if they are replacing the timing belt, get them to check the cam belt tensioners, i replaced both of mine on rb20det at about 140,000km, they were making a lovely squealing sound. One was same as rb30 about$70, and the other was $70also(nissan will try and sell youone for $250 tho!).Apparently the tensioners can part company and do horrible things!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...