Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Questions:

Is there anyway to check that the injectors are firing without removing them all?

Also is it worth checking the voltage running to each injector from the resistor pack, if so then what should it be and whats it measured as - ohms?

When I crank the car on the Power FC hand commander it says INJ duty is 1.9% then it decreases as I keep cranking it - does that indicate that the injectors are firing?

Unbolt the CAS from the front of the engine, plug it into the loom and with the key in the on position turn the CAS by hand. You will hear the injectors firing (clicking), and if you take the spark plugs out you should be able to see them sparking too. The CAS sits on a keyed shaft (halfmoon shape) so it will only fit on one way can be a bit fiddly to get the shaft lined up but it's not too hard. You'll have to check your timing again with timing gun afterwards, might be a good idea to mark it's original position with a paint pen before removing it so you can put it on relatively close to its original position

Edited by daisu

We rechecked everything one by and one everything else was fine

The wire running to the resistor pack had power but it turned out the resistor pack it self didn't have power to it which was quiet weird

Rechecked wires and the power wire to the resistor pack was broken were it met the resistor pack wire! Re soldered that wire and there was power to the pack

Turned the car over and it started but there was a miss fire

Traced it back to injector 3 not firing - so we had to reopen up the loom and check what had gone wrong

The solder on injector 3 wire had broken because it had been bent/forced when taped up so we had to split the loom and re solder that - that involved removing the throttle body and a few other fiddly bits

Anyways soldered and re taped that wire up, mounted the resistor pack

Configured the PFC and its running mint now

  • 9 months later...
We rechecked everything one by and one everything else was fine

The wire running to the resistor pack had power but it turned out the resistor pack it self didn't have power to it which was quiet weird

Rechecked wires and the power wire to the resistor pack was broken were it met the resistor pack wire! Re soldered that wire and there was power to the pack

Turned the car over and it started but there was a miss fire

Traced it back to injector 3 not firing - so we had to reopen up the loom and check what had gone wrong

The solder on injector 3 wire had broken because it had been bent/forced when taped up so we had to split the loom and re solder that - that involved removing the throttle body and a few other fiddly bits

Anyways soldered and re taped that wire up, mounted the resistor pack

Configured the PFC and its running mint now

im glad you got it sorted mate, good to hear.

im doing the same thing but my issue is that it started straight with the PFC but as soon as the temp increases i get a bad miss. basically

2 minutes after starting and then its gets really bad

on your injector loom were there 2 other wires which share the common 12v feed? i think they are for the temp sensor and TPS.

basically i put the 6 injector wires through the resistor pack and then joined the power wire from the pack and the 2 extra wires to the common 12v on the loom.

so it looks like the pic attached

it shouldnt be a problem as its basically the same as before and only the injectors are going through the resistor.

ive got a guy coming out to re test the injectors on tuesday but if they come up ok im back to square 1 and like you i really dont want to go back to stock to test.

any ideas from anyone?

post-37862-1233456077_thumb.jpg

Here's a clue......the power wire to the resistor pack should be connected DIRECTLY to an unswitched +12V supply line. From the factory, the GTR resistor pack +12V supply is connected more-or-less directly to the positive terminal of the battery (in fact, with the ECCS injection system used by all RB's and other Nissan engines, the positive feed to the injectors is connected directly to the positive side of the battery...all power switching is done via the ECU).

Here's a clue......the power wire to the resistor pack should be connected DIRECTLY to an unswitched +12V supply line. From the factory, the GTR resistor pack +12V supply is connected more-or-less directly to the positive terminal of the battery (in fact, with the ECCS injection system used by all RB's and other Nissan engines, the positive feed to the injectors is connected directly to the positive side of the battery...all power switching is done via the ECU).

thanks for the info that makes sense being that the signal wire opens the injector. i have re checked everything and no change but the miss seems to be contained to just the 2nd cylinder and i have ruled out coils and plugs so ill get the 2 injector checked on tuesday.

aside from that the car is running mint as it finally starts first time everytime even with the remote start.

can wait to get this fixed and tuned

  • 2 weeks later...

ive rechecked everything and got the injectors re flowtested so its not that. but for the first post i looked and my hand controller and found the the INJ settings were still at 100% and no correction. will this cause my miss fire?

also if i flip over the pfc unit while the car is turned on it makes a ticking noise and the car shuts off. is this a safty of the unit?

this is driving my nuts guys but im slowly ticking things off

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...