Jump to content
SAU Community

Re-dynoed My R33 - Happy Wif The Results

lilhaulerz

By lilhaulerz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

lilhaulerz Enthusiast

lilhaulerz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Heya all,

Finally got my car back on the dyno - This time with more mods and no more LEAN out !!! woot woot !!!

For all that dont know or dont remember.

The last time i had my car on the dyno , was to check my knocking figures i received on my safc...

It was NASTY !!! Even though the car made 180ish kw@wheels . The car a/f was at a 13.0:1 !!! Mods were:

- Greddy Front Mount

- Catback Exhaust

- Pod filter

- Stock Boost

imgyb9.jpg

So since then i have done the following mods

- 3" Dump

- 3" Hi-Flo Cat

- CAI

- SAFC2

- Walbro Fuel pump

- Turbosmart bleed - 10psi

Got it back on the dyno and got 160.9kw @wheels. Pretty much wat i was expecting for my bolt on mods. With a little fiddle with the SAFC2. I Gained 20kw @wheelsat topend. Mid range was improved to. Was happy with the results, with only 30mins of tuning. Plus it was a HOT day and the dyno wasnt adjusted for air compensation ect ect. Just raw power figure.

Top end a/f = 12.1

dyno2xc5.jpg

I know a/f curve bit funky. But best i could do with the time i had the dyno. Has anyone got a dyno graph of there a/f with safc so can compare? And also does my dyno look right ?

So im guessing its at 190-200kw @wheels - On a diff dyno , on a good day.

Gettin a Profec B and boosting to 12psi hoping i'll pass the 200kw @wheels mark.

Thanks all for the help and input in fixing my lean out probs!!!

Edited by lilhaulerz
lilhaulerz Enthusiast

lilhaulerz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys !

So was wondering, how much does air compensation and all that, effect the dyno readout ?

Lots ppl gettin 200@wheels wif same mods and boost.

Hot day could prob effect 5kw or so, but still missing 15kw. Does the air compensation factors, change the readout alot ?

swanny180 Proficient

swanny180

Posted
Posted

More importantly, who really cares?

At the end of the day the dyno can only be used for rough comparison, or comparison between modifications made on the same car on the same dyno on the same day etc if you want to look accurately at differences in power.

Be more concerned with how its driving and performing on the street, if it feels like a good improvements been made then you know you've done something right :laugh:

greyr33 Rookie

greyr33

Posted
Posted

Yeh, that is tru...

Ultimately at end of the day, car feels heaps faster than 180kw@wheels. very noticable in the midrang - top end. I got super sticky tires in the rears and now manage to fish tail on 1st to 2nd gear shifts and chirps 3rd.

I problem i am having is stoopid boost spike. It spikes to 12-14psi when i get back on WOT on shifts. It pulls back to 10psi quickly but still its a worry. Profec EBC coming soon !!! 12psi flat is wat im aiming for.

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted
More importantly, who really cares?

Well in reality, if you spend some coin on your ride, its good to know if your getting the same results as others at least. Helps with problem shooting, as unless one knows what 200rwkw 1.5t car feels like, you'd never know otherwise :D

lilhaulerz Enthusiast

lilhaulerz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So pissed off now. Once i fix one problem another one arises. I think i got a vac leak or exhaust mani leak somewhere. The car is making a feint whistle sound when i'm boosted like 1-2psi. Goes away later but i think thats just the engine noise overpowering it. Man i hate VAC leaks !!!!

Wats best way to find these things

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

it's probably a slight leak on your manifold to turbo gasket. I wouldn't worry too much about it at this stage. Once your car starts to sound like it has a jet engine as it comes onto boost, then swap the gasket.

Regarding the power figure, don't worry about it. You're in the ball park. There are guys claiming 220rwkw with stock turbos, i think they are full of shit as are their tuners. You are at the other end of the scale.

Just remember, you don't have full management so your safc tune is going to be a compromise and you have no control over the timing. There's probably more power in it with a stand alone ecu.

lilhaulerz Enthusiast

lilhaulerz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yehh.. That what i was thinking.... even if i boost up to 12psi ... i recon 200rwkw is max i prob get...

Lots of tuners, change ramp speed etc etc just to make customers happy. My figure is pretty raw. But in end of day, its fun to meeh...

Now big qn is.. Should i go for reliability and leave it at 10psi and spend my money else where, or boost it to 12psi and tune again ?

lilhaulerz Enthusiast

lilhaulerz

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Yehh.. That what i was thinking.... even if i boost up to 12psi ... i recon 200rwkw is max i prob get...

Lots of tuners, change ramp speed etc etc just to make customers happy. My figure is pretty raw. But in end of day, its fun to meeh...

BOOST SPIKE also fixed now.. just a leak in the wastegate to bleed valve line. Although that stoopid whistle is still there. Last nite did notice one bolts on the turbo to mani flange was nearly off, havent tightened it but still whistling, guess gasket must fudge wen the bolt wen loose

Now big qn is.. Should i go for reliability and leave it at 10psi and spend my money else where, or boost it to 12psi and tune again ?

Edited by lilhaulerz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 Rear springs

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • AdiR34
      Fender flare widths across front/back of car

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • GTSBoy
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • dbm7
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...