Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm gonna be getting new HKS cams put in soon along with HKS valve springs and retainers. Is there anything that i should do while the head is off? maybe solid lifters? or changing gaskets? Im aiming for around 350 awkw.. any help is appreciated. Thanks

btw this is on a 1990 R32 gtr thanks~!

If the head is off its probably worth getting it chemically cleaned in a bath just to get rid of all the carbon build up, its pretty cheap anyway. Depends how far you wanna go with modifying the head and the specs of the cams your putting in i suppose. Obviously a new head gasket is needed.

I'm kind of in a similar boat to you at the moment, changing my cams in a couple of weeks.

yer matie gtr's are a solid system, cam directly on to bucket, onto shim onto valve stem.

You could look at an oil restrictor which is put into the block to reduct the amount of oil pushed up into the head its a 5 minute job.

I have seen 3 different head in the past few weeks and all the valve guides were worn. If the valve are out you could do some porting but dont ask me how as i stuffed a head by taking to much out :-) well documented but did get the second one right

exhaust valve guides are probably flogged out and will need replacing.

solid lifters...GTR...lol

Thanks for the info, but could u elaborate on the "solid lifter...GTR ... lol"

Im not sure what thats meant to mean lol - I read that gtrs should only change lifters if the lift is 10.25mm or above? the cams are 10.2 lift, so i wouldnt need to change the lifters would i?

Also are there other gaskets that i should change? a workshop recommended that i change rocker cover gaskets too..

gtrs are a solid lifter type system mate so dont worry about them.

10.2 mm lift will be an issue though i believe you will need to machine the head where the cam lobes rotate i think that 10.2 will touch.

Also i you may need valve springs to match the 10.2mm lift again not sure if the standard springs will cope with that lift.

think you better talk to a workshop who has done this before as you will need to check valve clearence and this can be a difficult job at the best of times.

gtrs are a solid lifter type system mate so dont worry about them.

10.2 mm lift will be an issue though i believe you will need to machine the head where the cam lobes rotate i think that 10.2 will touch.

Also i you may need valve springs to match the 10.2mm lift again not sure if the standard springs will cope with that lift.

think you better talk to a workshop who has done this before as you will need to check valve clearence and this can be a difficult job at the best of times.

The person i got the cams off told me that they are straight fit cams, no modification required. I think i mentioned that i got valve springs, not sure if i did, but yea i got sum :P and i spoke to a workshop about it, they said a few shims will have to be swapped around and some bought, but that wont be too much trouble.. Just wanna make sure that i dont have to take the head off again.. So what gaskets should be changed will the head is off? obviously the head gasket, but any others?

The person i got the cams off told me that they are straight fit cams, no modification required. I think i mentioned that i got valve springs, not sure if i did, but yea i got sum >_< and i spoke to a workshop about it, they said a few shims will have to be swapped around and some bought, but that wont be too much trouble.. Just wanna make sure that i dont have to take the head off again.. So what gaskets should be changed will the head is off? obviously the head gasket, but any others?

you got had.

the only bolt in cams i can think of that require nothing else to be done is pon cams

Edited by rb26s13

hrm... does anyone know how much the standard nissan valve guides should cost? i gave them a call and they quoted me $47.45 EACH... times 24, thats $1138.80... which is ridiculous when tomei valve guides on ebay are only $525 + postage..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...