Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, my name is Michael, pretty new to SAU and wondering if the team can help me this..

Theres a skyline r34 GTT i am suppose to buy this week except when I look at the pictures again the engine it looks different from other R34 turbocharged engines.

He seller said the neo cover is missing fair enough but it looks like a r33 turbocharged engine.

I will show you some pictures soon, but also I asked some guys to run a nissan fast vin check and it says Skyline GT, from here I assume it was a non-turbo then dropped a 33 turbocharged?

any help would much be appreciated.

The picture with the circles around 2 components i believe to be the same as the r33.

I guess what I am trying to prove is that this car was a non turbo model to begin with and then the owner dropped a r33 turbocharged engine.

I posted the car I want to buy (has circles on components)

A r33 turbocharged

A r34 turbocharged (has neo cover)

and the vin check Dicer checked

post-49685-1207450310_thumb.jpg

post-49685-1207450319_thumb.jpg

post-49685-1207450325_thumb.jpg

post-49685-1207450330_thumb.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213644-nissan-r34-gt-t-query/
Share on other sites

R33 motors usually have writing on the coilpack cover,

a lot of parts are interchangeable engine wise between r33/34s so maybe a turbo conversion?

End of the day, if FAST says it's a 25gt, then it's as you said most probably an n/a with a conversion/engine swap.

Check the brakes if they are the small n/a spec ones

Edited by Yo-Yo

Definately a 25GT...it also has a clear bottle for the power sterring fluid, GTts have a black one (as you can see in the pic)

It was also an auto now manual, it will lack any of the HICAS and TCS and computers in the boot (attached to the rear firewall) that control them....100% it was an N/A

The wheels on the R34 N/A's are 5 stud so doesn't matter about that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...