Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I have posted about 6 threads about this in the last year or so and still havn't resolved it.

When I first got my car it ran perfect. no cutting nothing.

First mod was FMIC, KKR480 turbo, SAFC II, 10psi.

All done these in one hit. Ever since then it has been ecu cutting at high revs.

Now I know every thing about R&R and what it does and it IS NOT Rich and Retard. I am tanking like hitting a rev limiter. Ignition compleatly cuts for a second or so.

I ended up just thinking it was the ECU cutting due to too much airflow recorded on AFM.

Ok thoes first mods were about a year ago.

My car is now compleatly different, new engine, RB31DET forged internals, cams, head work, KKR560, Q45 AFM, Bosch 023 fuel pump etc. etc.

Now I have got the actuator on my turbo disconnected because I am still running the engine in so I am getting about 2-3psi max.

I am still running stock ECU with SAFC II to deal with fuel until I get my microtec LTX12s later on. I also have a set of 870cc Siemen Deka low impedence injectors to go in but I have to wait for microtec for that.

With my current setup I am still getting this "cut" at like 4500rpm onwards with only 2-3psi of boost. A friend of mine was in it the other day and he was like wtf was that cutting bs... and I was like yeah ECU is cutting due to too much air flow and hes like umm bull shit I have been in a 210RWKW R33 with stock ecu and stock AFM and that had no problems at all.....

I am now really confused.. I mean at 5000rpm in my car with 2psi I am going to be making what 120RWKW or somefin.

So I was just wondering if any one had ANY ideas....

I may have to record my car doing this and put it up on youtube as most people dont understand what I am talking about. its like a COMPEATE cut of all power for like a second or so. I have had my car Rich and Retard and you basiclly just loose power due to it being rich and retarted timing but you can still continue reving the car it just doesn't love it. Where as what I am getting there is a compleate cut like the car goes from making heaps of noise at 5000rpm to compleatly silent and the tacho just dropping until it stops cutting.

Also it doesn't cut unless I am flooring it. like I can rev it all the way out to rev limiter if I give it say 60% throttle.

I am going to borrow my mates RB25DET ecu and see if that makes any difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213654-ecu-cut-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...