Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys. getting back into the straight line stuff.

atm i have heavy duty billstein suspension.

they are nice and stiff and have a bit of squat in them when launching. is this good? mates have told me that this squat actually helps traction.

i only ask because i was thinking of grabbing some drag suspension...but they are hard muthers that do not squat.

so. is my billstien stuff good...or is the rock hard drag suspension the go?

cheers :blink:

*this is purely a suspension question. not a tyre/traction question

Edited by r33cruiser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213909-r33-drag-suspension-setup/
Share on other sites

squatting is the way to go! =D

I read in Imports Mag (skyline special edition), they actually had an article on achieving 11seond time slips. That actually the original suspension provides the best "squatting' for drag racing.

stiff suspension (like mine! HKS Hipermax D). Not the way to go, due to excess wheel spin.

Hope it helps!

hks make hipermax-drag

http://www.piaa.com.au/prod535.htm

low spring rates

high front compression and rear rebound damping, stops car from nose-diving when you change gears

low rear compression and front rebound damping helps car squat

beauty thanks for that. so soft rears and hard fronts are the go :thumsup:

Not quite.

You want no more then 3 kg/mm rear springs, around 2.5 kg/, is better. You want rear shocks with very little low frequency bump valving but a large amount of low frequency rebound damping. If the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The soft spring rate allows the rear to squat and absorb the torque hit, the large amount of low frequency rebound damping holds the rear down for maximum weight transfer onto the rear tyres. The problem is you get a lot of dynamic negative camber when you get enough squat, so you need to set the static rear camber slightly positive (around 0.5 deggres). A rear subframe alignment kit installed in the "Maximum Traction" positions is also a must.

Around 3.5 to 4.0 kg/mm front springs are OK (hardly "hard"). You want front shocks with a large amount of low frequency bump valving but with very little low frequency rebound damping. Similarly to the rear, if the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The limited amount of low frequency rebound damping allows the front suspension to extend therebye reducing the weight over the front and hence more effective weight transfer to the rear. The reasonable front spring rate helps to hold the front tyres onto the track, you may need to steer at some point. The front suspension geometry is pretty much irrelevant, just make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead (zero toe) so they don't provide too much drag.

In a general sense the average Japanese aftermarket coil over kits are not suitable for drag racing and the standard suspension is better. But (there is always a "but") the problem with the rear standard shocks is that they don't have anywhere near enough rebound damping. That's when they are new, let alone 15 or so years old. So you get bad axle tramp, the kind that breaks drive shafts. The more power the car has, the worse this problem becomes. In a standard'ish Skyline (boost up, FMIC, exhaust etc) you might just get away with it (standard shocks) on street tyres. But drag radials or slicks and decent power don't mix well with poor rebound control. You will spend more money/time replacing drive shafts than you will spending the extra on buying the right shock spring combo.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...