Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Well, I just recently got a side pod with 3 gauges installed into my R33 - I originally had a very nice (and easy to read) boost gauage but now with the pod (one of the 3 gauges before a boost one) I have one left over.

I am hoping to get it remounted in a different location near the dash as I really like this gauage. The question is, with the original pressure tubes/wires etc being used for the new boost gauage, what would I need to wire up this second one.

I have bought a nice chrome gauage stand and casing etc, just want to know what is involved to wire this up.

Is it as simple as attaching an extra wire(s) to the second gauage split from the first boost gauage? How about the pressure tubing etc? Some help in regards to the above would be great.

Thanks,

Kevin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213916-installing-a-2nd-boost-gauage/
Share on other sites

just splice the wires for the light from the other one, and a T piece onto its vacuum line. Run it up behind the dash and either drill a small hole in the dash behind the mount or poke it through a vent.

just splice the wires for the light from the other one, and a T piece onto its vacuum line. Run it up behind the dash and either drill a small hole in the dash behind the mount or poke it through a vent.

OH I see... so the vacuum line is all that is required? So the vacuum line is all that is required for the boost - I was under the impression there is another boost line... thanks for that... much appreciated.

Would the reading be the same or different after it's been split?

Regards,

Kevin

and somedays you just ask why.....

Lol..... yeah, I want two as one reads only in bars of boost - I want one that reads in PSI... much more clearer... cheers.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Much appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...