Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All up for sale

I'm selling most of the parts and panels off my 1990 R32 GTR.

All parts are standard in gunmetal grey. And in good condition.

*PRICE DROP*

Front bar/lip- $550

Front reinforcement- $200

Side skirts- $120

Grill- $150

Front guards- $500 pair

headlights $280

corner Indicators $150

Bonnet- $600

Rear Bar- $100

GTR rear wing- $150

Factory 16" GTR rims with tyres- $550

Recaro reclinable drivers seat with rail (worn side bolster)- $400.

Worn R32 Gtr steering wheel- $50

Short shifter- $100

Veilside 4" stainless steel Cat back exhaust- $500 (quiet)

AVS model 6 17x9" rims in white with 50% tyres- $1000

factory Gtr carpets $80

Standard Gtr front strut brace $100.

Standard R32 Gtr f&r calipers, discs, pads. $500

Everything you need to turn a gtst into a GTR basically.

Would prefer pick-up. But don't mind dropping it off if your nearby. Or else postage organised and paid buy you.

Located In Melbourne inner west.

Prices are firm.

Number is 0415-998-244 please only SMS.. as i work rotating shifts.

Thanks Tai

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213979-r32-gtr-panels-and-misc-parts/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...